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Yeah, they're a really good bunch, as you say, it's not often you come across service like that nowadays, yet alone in motorsport

What ratio was the FD that failed? When I first contacted Gripper, they said there was a limit to how low a ratio you can go to before the size of the pinion gets too small and potentially weak.

Looks like some painting is on the cards for this weekend so I need to pull the finger out and get it ready! Tops of the strut towers, V prepped and first pass, then did a 2nd pass/cap. Still not as good as my mate but i'm happy enough they're not going to come off I spent a little time...

I thought mine would have been in primer but looks like it was on the line when they called it a day for the mk2 and it had been fully under sealed and painted, if you ordered another one it might come in primer but there's no way to know, the supplying dealer didn't know and there's no way to...

It's a very tempting thought to have a proper blank canvass to build from, as I mentioned I did give it some thought when my new shell arrived under sealed and painted (had hoped it would of just been in primer) but when I spoke to a few folk combined with what I read online, I figured it was an...

If I was going to go this far (for a time I did consider it) I would go the full hog and get it E-coated, you'll never be able to get paint everywhere if it's done conventionally so it would be feasible for corrosion to set in somewhere without you knowing about it, granted it's a race car so...

Sorry 12/29 is 2.4 1st gear not 22/29, typo! Yeah very lucky, you don't often get away with a 1st instead of 3rd! especially if you were already coming down from 5th. Need to pretty alert to feel the thing wanting to stand on its nose and get the clutch back in quick before its too late.

Is the shell being dipped in some sort of primer afterwards?

What type of bias valve are you thinking of using James? I had thought about this but probably just going to go with the std cup bias valve for now.

John did say it was originally designed for the jc3 so that might explain it. The 22/29 is the tooth count, divide one into the other gives the ratio 2.4:1 simples Theres a spreadsheet on here somewhere with the std gear ratios to compare it with. But basically by having a longer 1st gear...

They've only got one set of ratios but they're not the same as the standard ones. 12/29 2.4 15/26 1.73 16/22 1.37 23/26 1.13 23/22 0.95 I've gone for a 4.28 FD which is about 123@ 7.5k in 5th.

If you're going to buy a diff just now that'll take the edge off it a bit, just need to sell the FD. Have you had a look at the ratios? 1st gear is good for nearly 50mph with the tyre and FD combo I'm running. For sprints and hills it means it'll actually be a usable gear.

A normal manual gearbox has syncromesh hubs to match the speed of the gear prior to it being engaged. They still have a dog ring but they're much smaller and finer, when you crunch a gear it's these dogs you are hearing being buzzed against the corresponding part on the gear, its the dog ring...

I assume that's 2.5+vat? Even so, still not a bad price.

How much are they going to be now?

Unless they've already got a lot of interest and just need 5 more folk to say they want one?

Dog box in a Clio, who made them? I built a Westfield about 7 or 8 years ago, had a 4spd Quaife dog box in it, awesome thing!

I was chatting to John when I picked it up and he said they are definitely thinking about making more but it would need to be 20 kits which is a fair outlay for them so if enough folk express an interest that would help them decide.

Lol, not overly excited just now, it's just a lump of metal, but if it does what it says on the tin, that might bring on a wee grin. The casing was pretty grotty when it went down so it's cleaned up rather well, can still see some of the areas where there corrosion was setting in but it's...

Very nice! Interesting why they've got the rose joints horizontal? For some reason I thought these were intended to bolt into a standard subframe with some spacers.

Cheers mate. Need to stick with a Renault engine for the class I'm entering. Who knows what the future holds though ;)

Gearbox in the boot :) on route home, so far so good with traffic

Going to collect my gearbox from gripper on Friday, unfortunately it will be several months before it makes any noise :( I've had 2 cars with straight cut gearboxes but not had one with a straight cut final drive so this will be even louder :D, childish i know lol

If there's enough interest they might look at running off another batch.

lol The kits they've supplied and built so far seem to be doing well. There's far less to go wrong in a dog box, as long as you change gear properly and dont mash the dogs up it should need less attention than a syncro box in competition use where you're likely to beat syncros and eventually...

I would have loved a sequential but they dont come up very often, although Daverb (think thats his user name) has or had a complete set up for sale recently but he was wanting way more than what the Gripper diff and gearkit cost. Also, repair and rebuild on the gripper kit should be a bit more...

No more progress at the moment, still offshore but hopefully going home by boat tomorrow! Will get on with a few things when I get back, one of the first being a wee road trip to collect my gearbox from Gripper, complete with lsd and straight cut dog gear kit ;)

I spoke to the elegibilty scruitineer for the sprints and hill round this way before I did anything to my car that could be considered to be in a grey area as far as the regulations go for modified series production cars. I sent him pictures with redline mark ups on them indicating what I was...

This was partly why I opted to make new engine mounts, as mad as it may seem. There's nothing stopping you tweaking the nearside inner arch but when you look at getting some more clearance on the offside the engine mount is smack bang in the way. Granted you could still chop bits of the inner...