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always noticed it most low down but the graph makes that pretty much obvious. 100% worth doing though.

75/80 gl4 10mm square under the box 3 litres front of the box, black plastic plug

yeah, nice difference. feels more than it looks on the graph though. red was before and black after, only change was the manifold and bit of a play with the map. chris thought it would only need a 15 minute tweak but ended up on it over an hour.

171lb/ft is a good figure. 182 manifold would of been worth fitting, give a nice gain over the 4-1.

looks better the right way round ;) nice torque figure considering power isn't anything special, what's it had done?

cheap shite toyosport crap!!!

do you mean what ones should you buy?

Will have a quick mooch at the figures later. Just stuffing my face at the mo.

chances are just needs nipping up.

where the main body sits on the head?

where is it weeping from?

my lads twiglet was high ish comp and we're doing a 197 on stock internals next month, probably run a 14t on it.

i could be wrong, brain has turned to mush this week!!

they are easier to remove if you take a bit too much tension off the plug, cocked up that way a couple of times myself :rolleyes:

unless you are chasing silly power the standard head is more than good enough. seen a couple of head conversions and they've not tensioned up properly, not saying this is always the case though. personally for the power you want i'd go with stock head and gasket, deck the block and go for 10:1...

Stock gasket will be fine. I'd still be inclined to run a phase 2 head though.

Thought is was a 1?

probably registered in trade, that puts them in limbo as they don't need to register as sorn.

with brentacre, think he was 19 or 20 at the time?

i keep saying i'll have to buy a depinning tool kit but with the price of them i'll wait until i run out of paper clips and pins.

my lads was almost £1,000 cheaper AFTER we boosted it.

am sure i remember someone saying new wings aren't a stupid price?

everything in the fuse box under the bonnet and throttle body plug just about covers it. reset brake light switch,never had to do this myself but plenty of people say it needs doing.

fwir jpt are just one side?

clean the usual suspects first. fog on the dash is bad connection on earth on the rear light connector.

3 deg an 1mm toe out.

wrong injector, bin it and hope no damage has been done, check oil level and give it a sniff to see if it smells of fuel.

light doesn't even have to come on.

paperclip or a thin pick.

you can put tape over the dash and it can't fail, if the tester can't see the light is on they have to presume it isn't on and pass and advise. no reason why insurance would refuse to pay out in the event of an incident.