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When I was at Surrey Rolling Road this guy was highly praised although he mainly works on Fords:
Michael Woodford Motorsport Ltd
Vehicle Repair Shop
Address: 7, Woodley Yard, Chertsey KT16 8LF
Phone:07985 266042
You might to try calling Dan at SJM. His contact details are in the Traders section.
^^^^
Also loosen the alternator helps. I broke two new tensioners using a tool which eventually broke itself so I threw it away and got some Jubilee clips. Don't just buy any hose clip, they won't be strong enough. I went to an agricultural suppliers and bought Jubilee branded ones which are BSI...
Steering fluid - is it old and dark or still red, I'd bleed it and put a fresh lot in. You have a few other cars so do they feel better than this car on the same stretch of road? I thought once mine had an issue until I started driving another way to work, tried it on the old route and it was...
Don't change a thing I reckon. Spend the £500 on the track day petrol. It's a Clio 182 designed to go go go from out of the crate (OK, it's not a race car but...).
I've done this loads of times and it is still not easy. I have developed a technique that works for me involving a large screwdriver to get one hole aligned then pushing in and down hard on the hub which then lets you get a bolt into the other hole. With one bolt in the other is a lot easier to...
Ha, you're right just tried it and so does mine. What the hell is the point of that I wonder, if you leave the boot open then it auto locks again. That's just daft.
Cheers, at least I know I haven't broken it.
Good to know, it might just be me then thinking it used to do it. I took some of electrics apart last weekend and thought I might not of put something back properly.
When I click the key to unlock the car and open one of the doors it then keeps the car unlocked, but if I don't open a door it will lock itself again after a couple of minutes. I thought the same thing used to happen if I opened the boot that it would cancel the auto-lock, but when I do it now...
Funnily enough on mine where it was repaired after a minor crash about five years ago it's fine, but the other side that's never been touched is a bit like the one posted by the OP. Also check the area round the fuel cap for rust. Pleased to read this can be sorted though.
The only way I've removed ABS sensors from Clio hubs is through destruction. Drilling, bashing with old screwdrivers and heat from a blow torch. Get ready with protective goggles. Not cheap either.
I thought afterwards that I could have fitted the seal first then shoved the column through it, but it was a right arse getting it onto the rack so this might not of worked (plus I was lying on my back under the car or lying upside down in the foot well!). Had to be done though the one I took...
It looks well enough on now, but I'm planning to take the engine out anyway in a few weeks for a gearbox swop plus other essentials so it'll do for the time being. It was a horrible job though.
What a horrible job, still the new one is now fitted and it all works fine. But I am wondering, does the big rubber flappy thing need to form a good seal with the bulkhead?
I did this at 120,000 on mine because I thought the same as you at the time. The clutch was nowhere near worn at that mileage even after several track days.
The feeling of a broken/damaged ABS ring in my experience is that the ABS cuts in too soon, often as you brake coming up to a junction where the road is bumpy. You will feel the ABS cutting in on the brake pedal so is that the fault you have?
They were usually anywhere between 160 and 165 as standard. 172 is PS not bhp. With all of the KTEC supporting modifications available they will make about 1 hp more!
Nice presentation box, mine were all in a scratty cardboard effort. That looks right. The long bar is similar to one I had for the aux belt but ti didn't fit, maybe your's will.
Top stuff, buddy. No accident damage so I'll change the column and see then how it feels. The engine is coming out as it's having another 'box on it, plus belts need doing and a few other jobs that justify an engine lift out.
Cheers for that, I'm trying to narrow down the cause of the poor handling. All bushes are new, plus tie rods and joints etc hence I suspect the rack's past its best. The column has some play so I thought I'd change them both.