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Here's me thinking they slid backwards to remove 👀

Upload a picture of your alignment print out results.

Probably, i may as well live there 😂

You can have a custom URL once you hit over 100 subs you know ;)

Yeah they're the ones.

Not too bad then, i'm 20 miles away but it take 40 mins to get there. Best circuit in the country for variety of corners.

Are you local to Oulton?

Oh aye, easy mate.

PBS pads all round for me, no complaints. I think they really do benefit from an uprated rear pad in these, despite what many people say about the rears doing nothing.

Yeah. Flashing EML will be a fuel injector.

The pulleys will need to come off and ideally you'll need new seals to go behind them when you refit. The covers are matched to the head but you 'should' be ok to replace with another one. Re-seal with Loctite 518.

Tbh in the last 7 years I've been doing track days, I've never seen aero catches that were fully closed, fail.

Those black bolts are self coloured and don't have any coating so they are a pain for corrosion. ACF tends to soak into them initially so I find that they take a second coat.

It's good enough, as i said earlier my coilovers have done 12 months and 5k miles with one application.

I'd give them a go over with ACF-50/Corrosion Block. Did my coilovers when i put them on this time last year and they don't have any rust on at all.

Check your subframe bolts. @Niall had a slight knock on his and we couldn't trace it for ages until we tried the subframe bolts. The rear one on the driver's side was a bit loose. This seems to have cured it.

PS3 or PS4 if they eventually bring them out in our size.

Yeah it depends on the side mount style, the alloy ones are a different shape i think so they will tight to the seat already. Those pro steel ones are wider because they accomodate the Pole Positions, Profi SPG and some others. Trying to fit them without the spacers will bend the mounts.... ask...

See here

On the Pro steel side mounts they have spacers in between the side mounts and the seat shell so that the mount stands off from the seat, made up of a thick cylindrical spacer, a washer and a piece of round white vinyl sticker so that the washer doesn't mark the shell.

Best thing you can do to a FWD hot hatch.

You're naturally going to worsen the effect of bump steer when you lower a car. You could fit a correction kit, but they're not that cheap. It must drive terrible with that alignment! Are you sure you have 0 camber and 1 degree of toe in? I'd suggest you get it set up with -1.5 camber and...

Titty Ho Motor Co 😂

Spray some brake cleaner around the joins and see if the idle drops.

Sounds like an air leak that. Either around the throttle body or the upper inlet.

I mostly use a pressure bleeder tbh

I've always done it that way :oops:

Missing the seals that go behind the pulleys and the crank pulley bolt there. Unless that's just the pictures. But if it is missing that's another £45 on their own. RPD have the full and i mean proper kit for £382...

Do you mean you can't push down with the bleed nipple open?

When you get a new bonnet, mount the catches the opposite way so that the button release is at the top. That way, if the latches do release the air resistance should push them down rather than lift them up like they are now. I'm not sure if it actually works, it's just a theory 😂