Search results

£600 is around the ball park price for the job.

Also found this which confirms what the AP brake guy was saying.

Good video that. Interesting when he says at the end about the transfer layer wearing off after a few weeks of normal driving and that you need to redo the bed in process to get that layer back. Might have to try that because i do notice most of the pads i've used don't feel as good the next...

They are helical diffs just like the quaife. The OP's Honda mates will be referring to the MFactory Plated diffs which are available for other makes. They don't make a plated one for the Clio. The first MFactory ones for Clios were terrible if i remember rightly, way too much backlash.

I'm sure my car would be faster with you driving it .

Only about 65bhp per tonne more than me lol

Helps when you've got about 225bhp per tonne :tongueclosed:

Mine looked a bit like yours after CL RC5's but i think my calipers were sticking a bit. Can just about see the disc here

If the pads are ok, try some scotch-brite or emery paper to clean the discs up a bit.

If you can get it to the Midlands then @NorthloopCup is your man. He did mine and quite a few for others on here.

Whip the pads out and have a look at the material to see if they've crumbled.

Ahh right i get you.

That will be why mate.

Yeah it's a good 70-80kg.

2:10 with AD08R's, Whiteline ARB, H&R Coilovers, Rear seats removed. That was with Harry's Lap Timer. Have also had a 2:07 on the app, but i take the times with a pinch of salt as the 1ghz gps in phones is not very accurate. Not had the conditions to test the Quaife diff or Dunlop Direzza...

Find someone breaking a 172 on here and get the sensor with stub axle included. Just a straight swap then. Can be a pig to get the old sensor out and new one in.

When i weighed my 2118's with Dunlop Direzza on they were 17.8kg. 2118's are around 9kg, so the tyre is around 9kg itself.

Interesting, look to be a catcam product so should be decent.

Yeah just a cost thing really. Not heard of Sinus valves, but the supertech are rated by most of the top engine builders for these engines.

As far as I know it's so that the head of the valve can be made from a more resistant material and is then welded to the stem. High revs cause vibrations and strain due to the speed they are moving, so they separate at this weld. Supertech valves are high grade stainless steel for the intake...

It's actually the valve head they drop most of the time because they are 2 piece. £400 is a good insurance for valves IMO.

Standard valves are shite and probably the number one killer after aux belt taking out the cambelt. Plus with cams, 99% of the time you will be raising the rev limit to get the most out of them. In the danger zone for standard valves then.

Anyone used these? Klin Korea Green Monster. Seen a few video reviews and they look quite special. Designed for the dirty jobs where you'd normally throw away the dirty microfiber after a few uses. These just wash clean like new. Got some to try, so will report back when I've tested them.

The first time it went he was on the way to get the belts done along with 197 cams fitted. Both times have been bad luck, nothing more.

The aux belt being overdue was the first time yeah. It then died again not long after a rebuild.

His engine was rebuilt and lasted 300 miles after £1000+ of work. I'm sure everyone wouldn't be too happy either. Nothing to do with service schedules.

Should go through with a decent blade on it.

O-ring on and pop the shaft in yeah. The wider abs ring is for cup and 182 cup pack. New nut should be fine, but you could use the old one if not too battered.

If you went with catcam 421 or 428, to get the best you'd fit supertech valves and uprated springs. With 438's you can use OEM but for peace of mind i'd fit supertech valves also. That's the way i'd do it.

Only meant to rev to 7200 😂 Mine will do 7800 with the rstuner map on it :openmouth: