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Basically what Ben has said. Think of a shower that looks like this;
This is how my car looks if I leave it having used the local jet wash. And it's calcium which is quite a hard salt = marring if dried, even via pat drying.
They all do the same via RO much like your brita filter in your house. They are expensive and run out quickly (although you can't tell until they really start to go).
Where are you based?
I'd be doing a Google search to bring up the names and links for you, so suggest you do that yourself.
However, I wouldn't bother. They're expensive and need replacing frequently.
A note on this (not getting at you Jay, just worth noting). You should not need to use Bilberry everytime, even highly diluted. If you clean your wheels once, properly, and then seal them well, much like your paint work, the dirt incl bad brake pad dust, should just wash off.
Bilberry is useful...
AS great as Jim's work is, you get what you pay for. He is VERY reasonable, but I fear it may be above your expectations. The other alternative is to go to a hobbyist who'll charge beer money and do an OK job. I use to just provide machine polishing services for £125 a few years ago, as that's...
There are a lot of suggestions in this thread, without (as per usual it would seem) actually asking what the OP needs in more detail. All the suggestions are worthy for a certain job. WWHW as a cleaner with added fallout remover. Echo this for Sonax FE. Bilberry is a cleaner, so is AS Smart...
As much as Marc's work impresses, taking a Clio to him is quite an amusing suggestion. A detail worth more than the car is not likely to be an option to the OP.
Also, if your paintwork is getting in such a state after a couple of washes, you definitely need to take a look at your wash and dry...
So looks like he's on pistonheads. For the price of a cheap tt/s3 you could have... Drum roll please... Just the engine!!
And here are some phone numbers if anyone would like to mess him around.
DAs pro without a shadow of a doubt. Far superior machine and you'll thank yourself for spending the extra when it comes to hard paints versus loooooonnnngggg correction times.
That really doesn't look right. C2V3 was sheeting for me well into 6 months with no reapplication (granted with three layers).
For Reload to drop off that quickly, there is either an issue with bonding, wash removal, wash leaving something behind (although then C2V3 would also be affected) or a...
That's a massively general statement. I can't remember the last time someone actually did a three stage polish, it's just nicked from the Meguiars staged products. But it sounds like they might treat the paint work better than most. Let us know the results.
Don't trust the body shop. There's a reason they mop it and call it mopping. It's a quick job to flat the paint. They will marr it and won't know any better. Talking to them (yes, bit of a generalisation, but these come about from experiences) will make them think you don't trust them or just...
The bodyshop will mop the roof and bumper and will likely mop adjoining areas. It will likely look worse to a detailer than the rest of your car. Mopping is bad. It does more harm than good.