Search results

Ensures all of the C2V3 hits the surface of the car and isn't taken up by the MF applicator. OTT, but I have some lying around.

Looks bloody good from where I'm sitting, Andy!

1. Chapppers11 2. Jay.S 3. Lawro 4. MatthewR 5. 1812lsd 6. JD 7. hardy1989 8. Euan94 9. Jaff. 10. RyG ​11. Ash_09 ​12. 182_adam ​13. Jakeg 14. Mi16chris 15.fearless 16.carbonraider 17.ash. ​18. samroach ​19. Addicted 20. Coby Done, Andy.

Alright you yellow-bellied-lilly-livered-DRAW!

FU pizza boy, find another section ;)

Andy, I'm away Wednesday through Sunday on a training course, so limited access to this place. If money is requested, could you let Richard know that's the reason for my delay. Cheers.

Lol. Sorry, missed out the CS necessary "x" to say it's just a joke...

For comparison; Dry car - one spray on MF applicator pad treated with i1 - spread over one panel in back and forth motion - breeze over with a clean, dry MF. Nothing remains and it beads like crazy. FFS even my father gets it right first time around!

Corrected^^ 1. Chapppers11 2. Jay.S 3. Lawro 4. MatthewR 5. 1812lsd 6. JD 7. hardy1989 8. Euan94 9. Jaff. 10 RyG

1. Chapppers11 2. Jay.S 3. Lawro 4. MatthewR 5. JD Cheers again, Andy.

Shows up more on black don't forget. Towards the end of the second coat, mine showed some minor marks. Not streaks. Just needing a go over again. I put it down to the MF applicator pad being overloaded.

Likewise, but then again, we're not tards... ;) Also, from speaking to Rob, it's usually down to over application... which again is amusing, Mr IAPPLYNEATEACHWEEKy0.

As YB says, that's the product's beading and sheeting properties, not your wax. Yet to try this, but with C2 on, don't see a need to. Although someone has said it blackens trim, so if so, I'll use it on that!

As above, they're spray flaps for the cars behind. Average Gallister, your detailing skillz and the car... ;)

That kit is not bad, but on top of that you're going to need spot pads for tighter locations, such as the door pillars and round bumpers etc. As above, you'll need to spend £200 before you touch the paint. The question is, are you going to be ablet to keep your paint free from swirls once...

1:3 with distilled for QD, which in your case is the best bet. I need to pick up some cheap distilled water from Tesco to do the same, so I can wash and top mine up this weekend.

Read the applications thread on DW... oh wait, bannage. Most people have said the same, so say on black cars diluted is the best bet... LOL. And I'm actually not lying, as funny as it would now be to see you do a U turn on your "I APPLY IT NEAT, DID I TELL YOU I APPLY IT NEAT? DO YOU APPLY IT...

It's more likely that you've not managed to polish the sanding marks out. This could be down to a number of issues - the first being the grade of wet and dry paper used (i.e. too coarse), the second being hand polishing is never going to get the results that machine polishing can.

C2v3 diluted? What do you mean by "lasts"? Adds protection or dilutes well?

Now that's more like it! Looks great pal, bar the black rimzzzzz.

Tapatalk, Chrome, Firefox, all showing nothing. Oh, actually, Tapatalk shows boxes with a red x :(

Pics not showing for me, Kevings...

I think that's 2-3 hours of polishing, not the full job.

Buying a Fiatfail and finding another forum...

Where is Todd? Has he died?

Lol, that thread just reminds me of Todd. Is he dead? Gloss enhancing, so not my bag. But as a good shampoo that is pH neutral, good spot!

Christ, the 60-100 game would be fun! Quick!

OMG STEP.

As above really. If you spray it down with a decent traffic film remover (TFR) or all purpose cleaner (APC), let it soak, then pressure wash it down, it will remove it. Then respray with an APC and go round the panel gaps, crevices etc with a brush.

I feel a monthly "meet to try Waxybox" coming on at the Unit.