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Pair of pliers will hold it and stop it spinning. Usually once undone they won't spin again.

Another generalisation is that a fail of 0.7 co and above usually indicates a failed lambda Below 0.7 but still a fail is usually cat.

Bit more of an update. Car is back from having a full 3" exhaust fitted. And the cams have turned up from Badger5. Only waiting on the solid lifters and then the engine can be assembled. Cylinder head is being done by a local machine shop, having all new supertech guides done, very light skim...

As what bozo said, the physical moving parts are of the same dimensions (crank throw/big/little ends etc) but everything else is different. Block has the water pump driven off the timing belt for a start, ports are different, etc etc. but you can drop the internals into a 172 engine

Yeh the 197 engine is about the same as the 172 one, if your basing it has 4 cylinders and spark plugs. They're completely different.

Take it somewhere reputable rather than Mr clutch! But their diagnosis doesn't sound too bad on this occasion

In willing to bet he hasn't put the washer on or is rattle gunning them up.

Perfectly normal.

No. The rods aren't up to anything over 280lb-ft really.

It's pretty much a myth about some being stronger Than others. Only real difference is on gudgeon pin size (19/20mm) compression ratio (9:1/9.5:1) and port size. For such low power you'll be fine with any motor you can fine. You want an 06a variant though so you have internal water pump. You'll...

What's your power goals? Budget? How good are you with fabrication? Wiring?

Yup. There's £5k in the engine alone now *gulp*. Then another 2k in turbo and exhaust!

I'm running 1.11's on mine. (~400bhp) so make of that what that will.

Tbh if it's taken him 3 years to do. I'd say he's probably given up.

I have taken the issue up with ZRP regarding this, but his build was the first reported issue apparently. Looking at the pictures it was just catching the oil pump drive shaft, so that would mean you couldn't modify the oil pump. It's his build, so if he's happy with it (and it's made good...

Point 1, it was the bolt head that had 1mm shaved off of it, hardly the end of the world!

Manifold all done! Big thanks to SAS Weldimg services again, faultless work and always willing to 'just do that bit aswell' Few pictures..

Wrong bulb fitted.

Through the bonnet release hole

Change the switch is faulty, or a door switch is.

Certainly sounds potentially like a pump failure

Certainly not something I'd advise on stock pistons and valves. Shock and egt's are uncontrollable under these circumstances.

Nope. New one fequired

Yeh. But even then people make a hash of it. I had one in from Renault the other day that was miles out!

Renault manual States all fastenings to be changed. If they aren't. No warranty.

Few hours here and there have allowed me to tack the downpipe and EWG Pipe up. Which is being picked up by SAS Welding services tomorrow :) Thanks again to @Stopherson for his time!

Good move on the ARP's mate! I'd advise slinging in a new oil pump as well now, I'm starting to see a few with oil pressure issues due to the pressure relief spring going soft.

Yes, providing the top mount is in good condition. I try and avoid at all costs really. Leave the gearbox up on the battery tray mount and remove the subframe. It's not left unsupported then.

That's fine until the to mount breaks and the engine falls out the bottom.

Cv joint failed in the side that's turning.