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jackson and slpx are sh*te - havnt heard of xs, look at the rms rating NOT the max power rating.
good amp - go for rockford fosgate for SQ IMO
other good amps - alpine, mac attack, DLS, ect (DLS - very good)
this is what i did - took dash off, removed old tweets, cut pods out fitted new tweets, tookl a few hours but its easy work!!http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/photopost/data/500/3993Dash-med.jpg
OK, well then i would sugest getting the gennesis 6*9 subs and an amp, then mount amp underside of parcel shlef or under a seat. But a .5 cbft sub box is VERY small, and you could attach the amp into the side of the sub box, and it would be easy enought to just take it out...
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.ukwww.caraudiodirect.co.uk
http://www.auto-acoustics.co.uk/http://www.auto-acoustics.co.uk/
but why would you want one??? if its for 6*9s or a free air sub, dont bother, the shelf will cost 50 + hen the speakers, might as well get an amp and sub in a small...
its about resistance of the speakers, the lower the resistance of the speaker the more power will be put out of the amp, if an amp if 4 ohm stable and you connect a 2 ohm sub, more power will be put out than the amp can handle, an the amp will over heat and die!!!
plenty info here...
there both 12" i presume!! and as far as i know the punch series are the lower series. RF are allot higer powered than they quote, for competition cheating i think the punch series is less so.
IMO, get 1 getter quality, a single 12 with 250m amp - that will prob give over 300 rms at 4 ohm...
andrewm - running 100rms into my fronts, with decent cable, it gets warm, so im sure the thin stuff would melt, this happened to a guy off CAD not running much, youl be surprised, plus its not to do with the speaker its running into its the power in the cable.
better than OEM - but you could get better sounding coxils prob, like the ininity range with moveable tweets.
You should really try and spend more if you want good speakers tho.
i would keep an eye on using the existing stuff, it must get fing hot!!! it will effect sq, it will increase resistance in the cable ect which isnt good.
IMO- its worth changing it but thats me
yer drill a hole in next to the plug where the cables go into the car from the door. youl have to do it from the inside of the car.
then put a grommet in and cut a hole in the tube going inot the door and run the cables into this.
HTH
ROrrie
to take the dash off, it is simple, but tricky!!! there arent as many screws that need to come off as the manual says, the 2 under the steering coloum dont need to come off, the top clips off, so skip those.
But u may find tha you will need to weight downwards on the passenger air bag part of...
if the rears are buggered, disconect them!! if you can go up to 600, then get the
7894rb http://www.mcs-direct.co.ukwww.mcs-direct.co.uk ( in the alpine sale section)
set of comps that you like the sound of - best to go and listen to some
then the rest on an amp - a good amp on sale...
IMO - spend about 250 on a HU - personally i would get an alpine say get the 7894rb from mcs direct - top of the range lasts easons modle (rrp 500) - exelent unit (i have one!!!)
then spend 200 on the fronts, a decent set of comps.
Then if you REALLY want rear fill get some cheap - say...
yer it look shocking in the concept pics!!! but every car does, the most recent clio was as bad IIRC.
2005- i know when to sell mine before then!!, if i can sell it before the new one comes out i shall save some money, then move to a car that has had a new modle come out about a year ago me...
IMO - you could get some 6" comps for the front that would give you some mid bass,
6*9s are never going to give you bass, just mid bass, if you get a really good pair, they will be good, as lokng as you work a little on sound staging.
the genny 6*9s adam mentioned are supposed to a really...
Baldocks - burgess hill - bought a brand new car, front off side tire underinflated, so much so that it came off rim when cournering(sp). BUT they replaced the wheel and tire for free - no other damage to car