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You can potentially convert the 182 head to run with the 197 belt setup by simply removing the idler pulley below the inlet camshaft mate. That’s the pulley you have to add to run a 197 head on a 1*2 block, so I can’t see why reversing the idea wouldn’t work.
You may need to run a bolt in the...
The degrees are measured at the cam. When you use the standard timing tool, they sit level. When you use the Grp n tool, the inlet advances 6 degs in angle from the straight position and the exhaust does the opposite.
The crank doesn’t move from the locked position.
It’s a DCI, but the final drive is ideal for boost. I was going to combine it with 197 ratios to close it all up. The gearing works well on a car with 15’s or 16’s tbf.
If you got a washer that would fit over the knurled piece, you could then use a m8 repair washer over the top and a nylon nut to adjust the ‘pre load’. I imagine that would eliminate almost all of the movement you can see in the video you’ve posted.
Back and forth movement can be attributed to the selector forks in the box have worn, but for side to side, the nylon bush, the shifter pin and the selector lever at the box can have wear.
I’ve seen the nylon bush be inserted incorrectly and give strange movement too.
It only takes a small...
Take the black end cover off with the gearbox in neutral and take pictures so I can see the selector forks. Upload them in here and I’ll be able to tell you if it’s selected a gear itself.
Put some grips on the input shaft and see if you can spin the shaft then. It looks like you’re selecting reverse when you’re saying it won’t turn. With the grips on it should spin.
It does look to spin quite easily though in 4th gear, which is disconcerting.
When the Jc5 is shipped, sometimes...