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Blasted a few other bits, and sent a load off for powdercoat
Before
After
Gave it a size up, made sure the bespoke clutch would fit. It did :)
Before I refitted the drivetrain I welded up some holes in the bulkhead left from an aftermarket AC install
I havent been updating but I have been working away on this.
Yuk
Degreaser and pressure washer
Powdercoated subframe with new bushes
Blasted the engine mounts and gearbox mounts
New fork
Depends on your budget. Start with decent brake fluid, ATE Type 200 or RBF660, then high carbon discs and performance pads. Which pad will depend on budget and preference. That is good enough for most road use and will see you at under £400-ish.
If you track or use it very hard do the Brembo...
I used Plastics 4 Performance too, had a bespoke set made for my R21 - highly recommended. They do perspex as a cheaper option, that will discolour over time and damage easier as its an acrylic, I went for Makrolon which is a polycarbonate, which to the eye looks like glass - top quality stuff.
Same, I've had 2 eezibleeds for donkeys, I even keep an old Renault 9 spare steel wheel for pressuring it. Might grab one of these new jobbies though, they look handy!
Upgrade in progress!
Yuk.
Rebuild kit with pistons, caliper paint, hanger kit, braided lines, and wheel spacers.
Took considerable effort getting the paint off, yellow over the original red. One done, one to go.
Box is back, turns out there was a whole load of issues inside with mismatched gearsets - whoever rebuilt it didnt really do it very well!
Now reassembled with a lower final drive and a longer 5th gear from a R25V6 Turbo :)
Managed to get it in place and bolted in on the engine and box...
I highly recommend a Clio based mid life crisis. This was/is mine, although the reg plates are now private wanker plates to compound the crisis situation, CL10 RSU and C111O RS
Ive kept the ones I was in, in decent nick and stored away - other than that I have a box of Max Power in the loft for old times sake...cant seem to bin them for some reason!
The dephaser, as I recall, uses oil pressure to phase the inlet cam 16 degrees over a certain set of driving parameters including MAP reading, throttle position etc etc - so the cam position naturally should be fine for idle - ie it should NOT run rough or badly even with that solenoid broken. I...
If you're struggling send me a DM, I will drop Tony Hart a message, he's the head honcho from back in the day. Spends his time now building very cool race cars for himself!
What? Another one? Yes, another one, seeing as one of mine is away for bodywork I thought I would squeeze this in.
This is a friends car. Really nice on the body, suspension, brakes all work, not bad at all. But the engine, sadly, rattles like someone took a bag of spanners on a buckin bronco...
Couple of shots from Retro Rides from a man in the crowd that hit me up on Insta.
Car is now parked up as I felt the track/feel of the car wasnt right on the trip to C&M, a quick snoop at the back has revealed excessive play in one of the rear track rod ends (it's got a Mcpherson strut setup at...
Oh, also fitted the strut brace I bought for it in 2003, maybe 2004.
AWFUL fit, not even welded the end plates at the right angles. Guessing after almost 20 years they wont take complaints though haha. Had to open all four bolt holes up to make it fit.
Its also now insured so I can drive it up...
Went to the Spa Classic :)
Wasnt on track just there to watch, great weekend though.
Rear wheel bearing died on the way home, made a hell of a racket! Thats a new bloody bearing, not hardened properly inside by the looks of it. Changed and running great again.