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Shrewsbury

The temp issue could also be an airlock in the system or a temp sensor. Bleed process: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/clio-182-engine-temp-gauge-going-up-down.735356/#post-10146475

Just put a small screw where the clip was.

1. Will most likely be the washer pump. 2. Check the fuse, then the wiring/stalk. 3. Check if the breather has come off the pipe under the coil pack. 4. Might be related to the horn not working, again check fuse and wiring. 5. Yup, replace dog mount or powerflex your one.

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Can also be turned off with an RSTuner if the Air Bag module is on it.

It's why I don't bother ringing them any more, just the same questions over and over that their just reading from a sheet. Also the first thing I do when on BT or other ISP is bin their router.

The oe way they corrode and when you come to undo the two nuts that lock together the whole threaded bar twists or snaps. I was going to use two rose joints and bend the torsion bar out to meet the bottom of the shock more, then use a longer bottom shock bolt, but decided against it as I didn't...

I've measured the thickness and width. 5mm thick and 1.5 inch wide.

Any engineering or stainless firms near you? or eBay as a last resort: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Angle-Iron-304-Grade-All-Sizes-Available-See-Variation-Listing-/360754173518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item53fe9fd64e Would need to trim one edge of this stuff.

New parts Old v New

Just in case you're interested in the uprated drop links. http://www.cliosport.net/threads/uprated-whiteline-arb-drop-links.754373/ Also, I'll double check the thickness of the metal, as I only eyed it.

Thickness of the metal is around 3-4mm Was about as accurate as I could get as it was pi$$ing it down.

It's not working.

Can always do this http://www.cliosport.net/threads/uprated-modified-exhaust-mounts.558057/ , http://www.cliosport.net/threads/new-exhaust-mounts.727494/ or http://www.cliosport.net/threads/custom-1-2-exhaust-mount.741956/#post10399237

Not sure if a pic is of any use, tomorrow if nobody has got the dimensions for you, I'll give mine a measure.

I recommend this stuff, Hammerite Rust Remover Gel: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-rust-remover-gel-750ml Saves using a wire brush attached to a drill, just slap it all over, wait for a bit then wash it off with running water.

Nope, need to change the hubs.

Try HiJackThis: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/hijackthis/

As much as I would love to partake, I'm gonna give it a miss Don, not having much luck at the mo. Still need to replace the bonnet, having front end issues, my pc just died, still haven't found a job and running out of savings.

Loads of freeware software on here: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/366982/freeware-replacements-for-common-commercial-apps/ Also it is a very good site for PC help.

Looks like they are doing another promotion. http://www.shell.co.uk/gbr/products-services/on-the-road/shell-fuels/the-new-shell-v-power-lego-collection.html

Finnegan's wife was having a baby, so that's all they could muster.

So what about existing customers?

That looks fine.

Wiring diag for wiring your own CC buttons.

Issue 1: Use a pin to clear out the jets and give it a squirt to see if it has unblocked, repeat till clear or get an air line on the washer pipe, disconnect the bit attached to the underside of the bonnet. Issue 2: Replace.

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t means an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds.