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In fairness he's asking the tolerance for run out on the head, he obviously knows how to do it either with a straight edge and feelers or a CMM machine:S
Regards Russ.....
Mine did the same after the Bilstein B14's settled, lift if back up mines -20mm front and -15mm rear, running standard Turini 16"wheels and no spacers 1.75 deg neg camber at the front, I still had to modify the bumper bracket with a big hammer for final adjustment, not had a noise since...
Just like to say best 172 Cup bar none, mine looks similar if I'm standing + 60meters away when it's been cleaned, you'll have no problem selling that I reckon you'll be sorry to see it go.
Regards Russ......
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^ it's over sized to accommodate all linkages as stated, lie you file flat on the ground and just run the bush along it until you have taken enough material off.
Regards Russ...........
Great Workmanship there:p
I'm not sure I want the to change pipework to be honest, I will keep an eye on this and thanks for the info in the PM.
So is this set up for your car only or the one you'll be selling?
Regards Russ..............
I notice your going single pass as opposed to dual pass currently fitted, assuming the OE rad is dual pass I'm not sure, I was looking at keeping dual pass design as the water is presented to the air twice and gives a gain in performance when cooling, I've read a few articles on the web as...
I've mocked up a rad out of cardboard for size, I'm looking at 670mm wide and 285mm high 50mm thick total including core, I've purchased a spare rad so I can unclip the hose outlets and see how they would fit, are you mounting on OE rubbers? my concern is the position behind the front cross...
Yes right lol, get back to your Jap car forum, still got your baseball cap ready and blue neons if you still want them lol.
Again very nice car Col.
Regards Russ....
I had the same issues, just put a big hammer to the bracket and lifted the ride height, stay open diff you now it makes sense, don't forget to put the plastic arch liners back in or I'll be talking to Mr Mansley lol :rasp:
Regards Russ....
I think these will be the new R rated tyre, for us who sprint / hill climb list 1A is a road tyre and the old AD08 has been dropped from Yokos list, unfortunately the new tyre AD08R moves them into the 1B list which is basically a cut slick or very soft compound, we can't use them, it's a real...
I'd go 205/45/16 as these are what I've got the 50 may be a little tall but ok on standard ride height I'm not sure, some minor mods dependant on how low you are, where have you found these they've become as rare as hens teeth, are these the new AD08R?
Regards Russ........
Do you rate the gripper as a better diff than the Quaife - if so is there much in it?.
Colin
Gripper is your best bet as your on a trailer as well, possibly see you at the odd event as I run in this championship along with Paul above.
I'll send you a Pm about the box and final drive Paul so...
Sounds good, I gained 4+ seconds at Anglesey per lap with just the Gripper/FD change running on AD08's, hoping a well built engine will gain me the 2+ seconds I need to get near the quick cars,
I think the Clio's a little heavy on the hills tbh , I'm not sure if the above cams will loose you...
Depends what class your running in, I run in 1B and drive to events so would say 421's max, I run a Gripper dif and lower final drive on the standard engine with standalone ECU and stock inlet.
If your in 3B fully stripped and caged on a trailer then 422's or 423's with a HC build and forged...
Hello,
Can someone confirm if they differ in layout, I'm looking to mock up the lower rad rubber pickups and the water inlet/outlet for a shorter rad, this is for a 172 Cup car looking to run ITB's, I don't want to remove my own rad atm to save the messing.
I have been offered a couple but the...
That is an option and a good idea, I can remove the bonnet catch and mechanism because I'm fitting a bonnet with Aero catches.
I like the Maxi car look that would be great to have that set up just behind the grille, and the angle you've gone for looks perfect with the trumpets, I wonder if...
As said to the other comments, It was me asking about a closed air box which Ph1 Tom replied to , I was asking a few questions as there are other options available, if I can get the ITB's fitted without an air box this would be ideal but I think they will be removing the slam panel , so I'll be...
There is quite a lot to it reading the info on Jenveys site and pulse tuning etc, how far the trumpets from the face of the box, I've sent an email to Revarie to see if they can give any info for a theoretical ideal set up for an engine, 8000rpm and Jenvey SF ITB's and 210-220 bhp output 55bhp...
That does look shallow so will have to look for another solution judging by the comments, it must be down to the air box volume as I assume this is critical, too small and it kills flow/power
Noise isn't really a problem just the regs with respect to removing insignificant bits, most...
I've been on the reverie web site and they have quite a few air box options and Jenvey use their back plate and air box Zolder 112 as an option, expensive I know being carbon but they have GRP options as well.
So the air box and remote filter are not a good option or was there a problem with...
I'd retain your standard seat belt if you drive on the rd and save the hassle of driving on the rd with full a harness as I reckon they are a hindrance, the airbag light can be done with the resistor mod you'd need to search the site for info.
Regards Russ........
This is getting interesting, I'm stuck with trying to fit the package within the constraints of the OE slam panel and try to maintain a maximum runner length, I've been looking on the Jenvey site, if you fitted a Reverie air box and then a good quality remote filter ITG etc with a good cold air...
That looks an ideal solution if it'll fit the Clio set up, would the bend not act like a venturi as the air speed would increase at the tight side of the bend, you would loose a bit at the top end power and gain torque lower down, or am I reading that wrong, it's not much of a compromise for me...
They do run close, I had the same problem with standard mounts! a dogbone and Vibratecnics engine mounts fitted and it went away, may be worth lifting the bonnet and just seeing how much kick back you get when you rev and lift, I was surprised how much mine moved watching it on the rollers, and...
Keeping an eye on this;) I'd have thought that angled spacers on the Jenveys would gain the room, although the alternator does become a problem as well.
Regards Russ......
Engine mounts need replacing, either go OE new for the road or Vibratecnic's for track competition, or Poly bush dog bone mount with standard engine mounts.
Regards Russ....
F*** **F John lol, not enough hair on my head, I still want to see you on the bike lol as I commented on your purchase of the roof rack, it needs to be on the floor with you on it to be of any use :rasp:will txt you later had some good news.
Regards Russ.....