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Mk.1 scene points.
Like having Japanese sunvisors, but a UK chassis number.
Also, it creates 0.01hp.....lets skirt over the 0.1cd drag that offsets it comfortably as soon as the car is doing 20mph.
@Brad.shepp, when I did my door speakers I must have used yards and yards of stick-on sound...
ask MT Audio (?) about leads, they may even have the one to keep your dashtop display working :)
You will need a patch lead just for the stalks (they're about £20 or so), the display-enabling one will be more, but it is nice to keep that display going
From last weeks thread, did we not conclude that if you've got bird mess on your car then you may as well just get the whole thing cubed?
Or is that just pink trophies?
EDIT: Someone in this thread is clearly on the rag
I've got one of those Kenwoods in the Mazda.
They're alright, give a bit of rumble but dont compare to a "proper" sub.
Ultimately its let me turn off low-end to my speakers though, which has made the quality from those better.
Lol @ "subs are sooooo impractical", they dont HAVE to be massive...
If you've only just started driving, I'd say the above would be more accurate.
Also, a 2006 campus is pretty much the same as every other 2nd-gen clio, so the books for earlier mk.2s should be fine.
nice plan. :)
Although, personally, I'd go for the Alpine power-pack amp and an all-in-one sub (just for having less wiring to contend with, lol)
Dont forget the deadening though, else all you'll have is a lot of loud rattles.
They'll certainly work just as well as any other normal brakes (as in, not OMG SOOPERSPURT! WOW DRILLGROOVES!!!!!)
Which means you can lean on them in an emergency and they'll work, even if you've not been driving like Mansell for the last 30 miles.
Basically, as a standard replacement...
riiiiiiiight.
so if you're that into it then I guess you'll be getting a sub of some descripton. As such, do that bit first THEN worry about pouring money into your doors. By the same token you wont need the extra inch of speaker cone if you're running a sub. That said, if you're that committed...
Leave your Clio alone.
Leave it alone
I'm serious
Seriously, there are far better things to waste your money on than a generic french shopping hatchback. You'll never make it fast, or look OMGZZ! (well, not without massive piles of cash to burn), so just accept it for what it is. It's not...
In fairness, the OEM speakers are more than up to the job, just let down by a naff stock head unit.
Change your head unit, get a small sub (Underseat if you prefer to keep a boot), use the HU to filter bass to the speakers, it works.
Maybe you should fix all the actual issues before throwing more money at modz.
Working steering > oooo, shiny wheels.
so
Clutch
Steering (by the way, your car is a sensible shopping runabout, the steering is supposed to be light)
Bearings
Anything else looming?
Also, for your audio cables...
Why not just get a generic pattern part? If you want to keep OEM-levels of noise.
Everyone says the exhausts from Renault fall apart within 5 minutes (they are wildly exagerating, but it helps them justify a chavcan in their own mind), but if a pattern one is a decent low price, does it matter...
I'd suggest anything along the lines of **64 ***
where
*= any given number in the alphabet
R200 LWS?
"R twoooolws?"
"Are Tools?"
Lerwick Widowmaker Solutions?
Mate who had a RS200 from new got CL10 FTW for nothing when he bought his. Even then we thought he'd been had, all it did was...
This.
Think about how you want to appear to potential clients/employers before you start putting your image to film.
"hi, yeah, I'm a motoring journo, I'll review that new Benz for you!!"
Really? Sure you wouldn't be more comfortable in this 51-plate VTS? Because you sure as anything aren't...
Looked at these a while back, but couldn't see any benefit over the 172 I had (other than a slightly lower tax band)
Still, if I was in the hatch market and saw one with a full warranty, it'd be high up the list