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Changed the brake fluid / flushed it through , and cleaned the Rust ridge on the inside of the front discs as it's not driven enough. Also put the leather wheel on - feels good.

I'm sure I have one or two floating in the old tool box . I'll try and get over to the lock up tomorrow .

Just spent the last hour reading the whole thread and well , what can i say , bloody good work gone into building a decent scottish track track weapon. Funny thing is , its roughly the same route mine is going , but i have'nt done as much as you yet. Very well done @Fraser.J. Subscribed

Good luck finding it

Beg your pardon - that's right . My bad . I guess one tip you didn't follow was the magnet . Things don't get lost if you have one to hand to hold all the bits and bobs . You've done well so far [emoji106]

If the box is built up to where it is - I'm afraid to say that , that piece in your hand goes in between the two shafts . You'll need to pull em out again if that bit is not there .

So are you cool with where everything goes now ? Have you been rebuilding it today ?

Get it checked properly , instead of guessing , I say this as you could potentially throw money at it when it could be spent else where on the correct part that needs changing . If something else is worn it'll show up straight away to a keen eye in the know .

The CTS your looking for is the white coloured one on the thermostat housing . Yes @MicKPM your right the brown one is for the gauge and the twin one is for the ECU.

That's Mint to achieve that cha cha slide @MicKPM

http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Blackcircles-Discount-Code.759330/ This might help

Here's my EMN . Shame it's being broken . But needs must . I also have a Cammed Ph1 like Chi and I can understand you not wanting to chase big numbers , Cammed and weight loss to are def the way in my opinion , these little rockets just put the biggest smile on my face every time I'm out in...

Your more than welcome . That's what this site and any other is all about . Good honest friendly advise . [emoji106] Sounds good to me [emoji2]

Looks Moody and the App I have doesn't list the Model of vehicle (moody) it's more than likely a rep with a 2.0ltr engine in it , or it's been shelled and the 2.0 ltr suspension not used. Lol. As where mine does show the model.

Let's just say every bloody thing . Lol Before that stuff we used Thixo white sealer

That's right - always remains tacky . It was also used for all water pumps too would you believe .

The Red stuff [emoji106] Had shed loads back in the day . Might have a tube kicking about . I'll have a look

Call Ren-tech , ask them how much it'll be ? It'll save a hell of a lot of time . You could have it all back up and running by the weekend. . Also you need to get the sealer that goes between the casings ? Again ask Ren-tech what they use

Pretty much DannyR Idiotic behaviour that only lasts the duration of the doing . Short lived , imbecile comes to mind . Lock him up I say . Could have been a major accident

The seal is inside the tube and the bearing is all one piece . See the white bit in the inside of the tube ? When you get yours DO NOT REMOVE THIS . what you need to do is press this out with a press machine . Remember to take note of the drop of the bearing height in the casing . See...

Before you press the input shaft bearing out - be sure to measure the drop from the casing to the back of it as this is important , because there is an oil feed hole in the casing that'll need to be lined up perfectly when pressing it back in . The oil feeds the bearing naturally . Any off...

That's correct up to this part . Now you got to remove the 1/2 -3/4 gear set along with the selector forks all as a unit . The forks are roller pin secured to each rod . These need removing so the rods can be twisted within the forks and lifted up one at at to be removed and layed to one...

That's it . [emoji106] Up a 5.30am I'm off

You haven't ruined it

Get it looking like this , but select reverse first ok

The reason both shafts turn still is because your missing the selecting ring bit that goes over the 5th gear in your pic . From the bottom it gear , synchro ring , hub . You sliding hub ring locks 5th gear in when push down , like the rod would do .

All is not lost . If you cannot get the rod back in , just rebuild the 5th gear so it looks like this again without the fork . Then select reverse gear FIRST which is the lever away from the casing at the bottom and towards the rear of the box starter motor side . Then manually select 5th...

Look at these two photos very carefully , The rod in the second pic is the one you have pulled out to far . You can see it has a Fork bit at the bottom of pic 2 ok. That rod is 5th gear selector rod . Can you see it slots in to the hole at the bottom of the gear set in pic one above . You...

Only thing your need to do is select reverse gear first with the lever outside of the box and then push 5th gear down so two gears select at the same time and locks the box . Once the bolts are loosened . Un select both gears b4 you proceed any further

You clearly haven't read my post properly . Why have you removed the 5th gear fork ?