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I had to do this last week. I couldn't see a way of doing it just through the wheel arch (i tried).
Bumper off is:
2 x 10mm bolts in the front underside of the bumper.
2 x plastic plugs holding on the top grill (under the bonnet).
2 x rubber plugs holding the arches in place (2 each side).
2 x...
I've switched from standard mk2 ph1 units, to dual optics (with expensive bulbs) to xenons and there is a noticable improvement from one to the next.
Xenons rock.
Most of them are very good imo. There's just a couple i don't really 'get' - like the Queen street one. Isn't anything drawing my attention in that one.
What time of night was this taken?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/2902469387_c441a85bd7_b.jpg