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Depends on how much boost/power and if it's going to be used more on road or track tbh
Some people prefer to use JC5 089 from the ph1 172 as the gear ratios are more suited to it - still made of the same French chocolate as all the other boxes so not really the most suitable option for big...
As mentioned above, the only thing I can find are the Koni's as well but they're about £200 each, it's not so bad if you're not having to by springs but you're then into similar money as coilovers
A set of Eibachs are about £275 but the shocks are unavailable from anywhere atm except 182 Cup items & they're the best part of £180 each
I need new shocks for my daily 172 but with what's available right now and the cost, it's not much of a jump in price to coilovers. I'm seriously...
Took a gamble as I managed to find a single KYB shock on eBay for £22 delivered
Good news is that the info on all the listings for these are wrong, they all say they're 52mm bolt spacing but I can say with absolute certainty they are 54mm 😀
The bad news is that the bolt holes are M12 and...
There's a plug connection on the bit the column attaches to the rack so I'm guessing they think that's the sensor 🤷♂️
The power steering has been removed so they can't test for something that isn't there (that's my thinking anyways)
The Dunlop Bluresponse are are garbage so wouldn't bother with those. Nothing wrong with the Hankook or Falken's though
Although my personal preference these days is Avon ZV7 and I only really choose the PS3's over them if they're cheaper than the Avon's because from my own experiences of both...
Ah nice, I knew they were for Mk1's just didn't know they carried onto the Mk2's
KYB 633707 = 52mm
KYB 333743 = 58mm
Part numbers from KYB just in case they're useful to anyone else
Does anyone have any experience with pattern part front shock absorbers for the 172? Specifically, which ones are actually correct & fit?
Genuine ones are basically unavailable at the minute so they're a no go hence looking for pattern parts. I've found plenty of them but digging deeper into...
In Japan it's called Lutecia because Honda own the copyright to the name Clio - I'm not 100% sure if the Honda thing is true but the Lutecia bit is.
In some other countries they're called a Thalia or Symbol - those names pop up quite often when searching for parts on ebay etc, could be where...
The diff might alter things a bit as some of them need to have a shorter shaft in them to work - I've only got experience of this in Mk1's so no idea if the same applies to the Mk2's
Not really, I've not had to buy 1 for god knows how many years so a bit out of the loop but if I was looking to buy 1 I'd deffo measure what's currently on the car and just search for ones that match those dimensions because there's quite a few variations of shaft and cup diameters just the same...
Are you sure about that though? I had a new J&R passenger side shaft for my Cup - admittedly it was the seller that told me it was Cup specific - and it was a different length to an original one I had to compare it with.
I can't remember the measurements off the top of my head but I know that...
172 Cup shaft is different and the ones you get from J&R are no good for a Cup
I think what you've been reading is more about the inner boot/seal on the passenger side as they are a t**t to do and have a bearing in them that has 2 or 3 different sizes and it's quite easy to get the wrong one as...
My 1st choice these days is Avon ZV7 unless I find PS3's that are cheaper
It's a shame the Ginetta juniors stopped using PS3's as they were a bargain with the guy selling them after they'd been used for just 1 race weekend ☹️
Although saying that, because it's a Cup without ABS you can use rear discs from any other MK1 or MK2 Clio as the discs & bearings are the exact same parts and the part numbers are only different because of what abs rings are fitted to them.
I managed to find a set of genuine discs for a 2006...
Those discs look mint to me, I wouldn't bother changing those, especially if they're genuine Renault ones.
Also with how disgustingly expensive the genuine ones are now it's a bit of a minefield with the aftermarket pattern parts as a lot of them use dogshit bearings - I vaguely remember from a...
So you're the Matt I replied to on fb :D
From someone else's reply on there saying they've just fitted some & they were spot on, it was the Febi ones I bought that were correct
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193786278522
There's no reason to have to take the manifold off 😳 but it certainly does make it incredibly easy to do the starter, some pics in this thread
https://cliosport.net/threads/clio-williams-track-car.803549/
There's only 3 bolts from the gearbox side and 1 nut attaching it to the bracket on the...
They don't tend to survive not having a heatshield, here's the part number & what it looks like, you'll also need the 3 bolts for it, bottom right of the pic is the correct bolt
Go onto Autodoc and search for coolant, in the filters bit you just need to select the yellow colour and it'll bring up all the ones that are the same as Type D
I've just bought this to do mine
Hey, check out PEMCO Antifreeze in the AUTODOC app https://m.autodoc.co.uk/pemco/15770053
Thread bump to see if there's any new info out there & maybe contribute something useful - got a really really cheap 172 to daily, the pas pump sounds like it's dying & as I'm doing the belts on it I might as well replace the pump too. So no track use and I'm preferring to be 3.14-key as I've...
They're still available on Camskill for £69.50, the Nankang's are only any good for dry track use & even then they're pretty mediocre & marginally better than normal road tyres on track.
I've had my 172 Cup for 6 years and only ever had PS3's or ZV7's on it, I can safely say that I've not...