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I received a nice little package today from @Yanoo to complement my Scenic shifter. :cool:

Where are your engine mounts? :) Already seen how it's mounted. It's purely mounted to the subframe? Is this done for ease of dismantling? I'd say that the original engine and gearbox mounts would be a lot more around the center point of the engine. Now, there is a lot more weight hanging on...

Nice, I was planning to do the rears out of 2 mm, and the doors out of 3 mm.

20 kg's? That's a lot. But how did you weigh it though?

One more thing to cross of the list. Steering column bracket reinforcement. It's one of those things that seem like a little thing to do, but when you're finished, a lot more time has passed than initially planned.

There, the cage is in. :cool: Pretty happy with it, next up is connections to the front suspension turrets, and A and B-pillar gussets. Total cage weight added so far, 68,3 kg's, making total weigh saving 174,8kg's.

@killianm1 Thanks, for the like. :giggle: But it doesn't really matter I suppose. I have been driving with the standard wheel for a long time, and it's been fine.

A round one, that's attached to your steering column. :ROFLMAO:

We got the ATS wheels fitted to the Polo, and they absolutely changed the car's appearance. :cool:

Cage update. After I grounded all the connection welds back, it was time to start with the load spreader plates. I used 2 mm plate for this, and I made sure, that any seams in the area would be covered by the spreader plates, in order to (as the name of the plates imply :ROFLMAO:) spread the...

I know how both ends look, but I still haven't got a clue what you mean. :giggle: My Scenic shifter arrived today. It's 8 cm's taller, and travel from 3rd to 4th is only 1 cm longer. Also note that the Clio has a bend in it original, and the Scenic one is straight.

I bought myself a Scenic shifter, and it is not often, that I can say, that postage was more expensive than the actual product. I paid 8 Euro's for it. :LOL::ROFLMAO: And it's not often, that a product is this well packaged. :oops: For those interested in which one it is, this is the label...

Lower rod to rod ends?

Yes exactly. Just to get it closer to the steering wheel. I've found one for 8 Euro's. :LOL: And because I had some problems with getting the gearbox into 4th sometimes, I figured it would be time to refresh the linkage.

Got a link? It's 27 pages. o_O As it's a track car, I plan on driving it fast.;) But what is the effect of a quickshift on the gearbox syncros?

The question for me, is not the lever, but how the quickshift will affect the syncros. I have no idea. Will it just reduce it's lifespan, or will the box break easier if I use it hard?

@NorthloopCup @Yanoo Can one of you shed a light on this please?

I've removed my original gear lever, and it looks like a stiff shift will transform the gear changes. ? Problem for me with the quick shift, is that I don't understand how it will affect the syncros. To be honest, I don't have a clue how a gearbox works. :whistle: Will they normally do...

I've just bought a Scenic shifter, and I'm not quite sure if I should add a quickshift or not as I don't want to reduce the life on my syncros. Please tell me what you think and/or what are your experiences.

Mooie auto's, welkom. ;)

Today there was a Golf GTI Forum meeting at JD Engineering, and because of that, JD offered a 20% discount on engine and dsg tuning amongst other good offers. Because I already wanted a stage 1 remap, I applied for this day, saving 140 Euro's. Power went up from 220 hp to 300 hp, and torque...

Today it was time to get our Polo a bit lower to the ground. We didn't want it extremely low, as we will be driving on small country and mountain roads through the Czech Republic, Austria, Germany and Italy. But the difference is quite significant. My friend took the ATS Classics with him...

That's quite nearby. I'm from Klazienaveen. ;)

Got the connections welded up. Pretty happy with how they turned out. I will grind them back though.

That's a nice looking phase 1. Keep it tidy. Where are you from in the Netherlands? Greetings from a fellow dutchman. (y);)

That's exactly what happened when I didn't have the gap.

Before I started welding the connections, I wanted to do some test pieces to set up the welder correctly, and to find out if it was better to have a gap or not in between the cage tubes. The welder settings are turned up to level 6 for the amps, and level 9 for the wire feed.

A 3, 4 mm gap seems to make the best connection. I've got the welder turned up to level 6, 7 is the maximum, and wire feed to 9.

Thanks for the reactions guys. Bevelling sounds like the right thing to do, albeit that the cage is already in the car with the inner sleeves tacked in. I also do not want to make a cut in the inner sleeve to keep that one as strong as possible. I will make a couple of test welds to see what's...

Which is better for structural strength? With the gap, I can weld the inner sleeve as well, but there is more room between the cage tubes. Without the gap, the cage tubes are closer together, but penetration to the inner sleeve is harder. The holes are there to connect the cage to the sleeves...