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No point in running verniers. The pulleys are freefloating

I'd run Megane ones personally.

I'm down that way weekend after next.. Well, Redhill anyway! It'll bring up lights, and if the esp is on it'll interfere with the car

Not really mate. It's calibrated so if it's moved it'll cause all sorts of false readings. I can do the airbag lights if required.

Only up the road from me. And I hadn't even heard of it lol. There's a few cars I know locally there, the escos was at the meet I went to last night, and the 200sx 14a lives opposite Vikki's parents house.

Then Have problems coding keys whey they s**t themselves. Repair it correctly, and buy a new UCH.

I'll reply to your text in a bit mate, only just got home!

We have monthly meets in Exeter usually. Although they aren't organised on cliosport now due to the fall out between a few members/admins. If you look up RSSW on Facebook you'll find details of it. It's all the cliosport lot except one or 2 members now.

TimR26 Preferably 1030! I'll be taking Vikki's out :)

Are they?! The gasket is that much?

It's a complete engine loom. Be prepared for a £400+ bill for the part alone!

Taking the fuse out gives 50/50 brake bias. If you disconnect an abs sensor then you'll retain the 70/30 split.

I'd sooner avoid doing a cat-manifold kit FLOL.

I'd advise against changing the ecu/UCH/key just because if you need a replacement later down the line, you then have to go through it all again as you're unlikely to have the VIN from the donor car. I'd suggest going to a local specialist/another dealer as it's only around £150 for a key inc...

A remap from myself on a clio 4 1.2 would take it up to around the 140 mark.

Don't go changing the ecu and key set. It causes more issues than it's worth in the future. ph1 keys come pre-coded from Renault now, complete with blade @ ~£130.

Undo it at the centre section, and pull it down.

You can do it without taking the cat off. I fitted a PMS one the other week without doing it.

Make sure he uses a valeo clutch. Else it'll be nothing but problems.

http://arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.shtml

I had to drill mine as it was a 182 one on a 172.

It is. Due to the oil strainer on the top.

b****cks. My bad. That's for con rod bolts. Measure the thread and let me know what it is.

When you do the multiplex test, what circuits are in red?

42lb-ft

Who did the timing belt? If it was a local garage then I'm putting money on timing not being correct already.

Yeh. Earns me money putting it right, customers feel happy as they're car is quicker and they're getting better fuel economy. Genuinely win win.

£45 for a CLiP scan, which comes with 30mins investigation.

There is a tin cap on the end of the gearbox. Held on with 3 13mm bolts. Undo those, shimmy (struggle like f**k) the cap out, you'll be left with the 5th gear selector and sprockets. There is a t40 bolt and a nut on the shafts. One of those will have come loose. Don't forget to drain the oil.

5th gear's retaining nut has worked loose.