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5920 http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173139_langId_-1_categoryId_165691

mine aren't bothering me too much either they're not solid BTW (Nero) - they're still rubber, but stiffer and of a different design

sorry, not sure about this as i've not fiddled - are you saying you've disconnected the plug in that picture from another loom? i think McBeef's suggesting that there's another loom that runs from that plug to both foglamps (you've got four leads running into that plug) i'd best leave this...

hopefully someone will know which loom it emerges from ed. oh right (sorry - can see four leads now) - so you need another loom that runs from that plug to both front fogs?

may be it's been tucked away somewhere - see if you can find it coming from the rest of the front lamp loom (not sure which loom it comes out of, just assuming it's the front lighting loom)

t'is a satisfying relief, taking something like that out, as they tend to look quite bad. everyone turns and runs whenever it's mentioned, but original formula T-Cut's about as good as it gets by hand

'scratches' like the one in that picture are easy to get out - that's just paint transfer, from having rubbed against something painted white if it's a true scratch (ie. has cut into the surface of the paint), the only ways of sorting it are by either adding paint and levelling the surface, or...

if it's coming from the union, it could just be loose, or need a new 'o' ring. worth being sure if it's the union or the pipe first anyway (it's not easy to get at the union BTW, and the nut's alloy, so need to be careful with it)

i've inlets and a catback exhaust on mine and it 'feels' no different to std. it's been suggested that any difference would likely be noticeable if i took the bits off (which i can see), but it's still not going to be a big deal IMO decat made a 'noticeable' difference, but hardly set fire to...

yep, connect the reds as well. as said, may need to connect yellow-to-red to get the memory working. need to play around with it

works for me as well. only recently washed mine (last done in Feb!) and WonderWheels did a good job of sorting out the baked-on brake dust - quite surprised actually

as above - connect the yellow leads together. the block in the top right is taking power from the car's loom and passing it into the stereo through the block at the bottom - there's no continuity unless you plug the leads in have a look at the wiring diagram in the destructions for details...

yep - connect the yellow leads together - there's no power you may need to play around connecting the yellow to the red lead to get the memory working - the connectors will piggyback

does sound as though there's a problem with the HU then. the red/yellow lead thing is for the memory - they should both be live with the ign. on one last thought - is this a new unit? you have connected the yellow and red leads in the new Alpine loom? (as they're not connected at all as you...

does it not work with the ignition on in the accessory position?

one of the black blocks is for the speakers and the other is for the power/etc. take it the fuses in the HU and the fuseboard are OK? and you're trying it with ignition on? (sorry if that's a daft question) the small yellow block is for the steering controls and the dash display - not needed

have you changed/bled fluid recently? not normal to be able to fade brakes on road. it's easily possible if you set out to do it (ie. accelerate/brake/accelerate/brake/etc) but much more likely to be prob with fluid otherwise IMO

is this a garage job? suppose you might save a tiny bit having the mounts done at the same time as the car needs lifting to look at some of them - the cat's not in the way or anything though, so not automatically wise to consider them at the same time guess it depends upon how the car's been...

presumably you've got a live and an earth to it? disconnect those and run test leads from the battery/good earth to check the horm itself works, and/or use test bulb to check what's coming through the loom's leads

Stebel Nautilus is a loud compact airhorn - no trumpets or tubing; just bolts on and uses existing live/earth leads. think Halfords sell them (£20ish?)

DoubleD in Westerleigh (near Yate) keep part worns; 01454 321858

cheapest for me recently was about £300 with a £150 excess - use a few of those comparison sites your age and NCB are going to hurt i'd have thought

they might not be compatible, but see if the adapters on the arms you've taken off can be used; what i had to do when i bought some Halfords blades anyway

have you checked the earth? Stebel Nautilus is fairly honky if you've cooked yours

Bosal supply a pattern part (pt. nr. 255151) - most exhaust fitters will deal with Bosal; about £12/ea (going to depend on supplier)

it's just one of those things; there are quite a few (dealer) bits that are only available as complete assemblies last time i checked, d/shafts were getting on for £200/ea from Renault could try s/h, or a reconditioning outfit

petrol is lighter than water; think it's 'about' 3.3kg/gallon planning on removing what will go back in easily from mine once i've got one of these daft M10 eyebolts (may as well put my harness in at the same time). something to play with on a summer's afternoon anyway removing the...

Mark Ryan's Clio 172 'Maxi V2' Click image for more pictures Body: ‘Maxi 2’ Wide Bodyconversion comprises: Front Bumper, Rear Bumper, Front Wings, Rear Quarter Panels and Alloy Fuel Filler Kit. Also Prima Sport Maxi Rear Spoiler, Bonnet Splitter, Prima Sport Exhaust System - Oval Tailpipe...

results are up, out of casual interest: http://www.bristolmc.org.uk/EventResults/DM_Sprint_Final_Results.pdf

lol. what a plank