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not sure i understand what your asking?
but to make hp, you need to carry tq as high in the rev range as possable. you dont need much torque, but you do need to keep hold of it as long as poss.
i.e a car that makes 200lb/ft@ 8k will make 304hp.
a car that makes the same 200lb/ft...
im not happy or un-happy, its a simple belt.
and i only churped up because im a new member, and the amount of threads i have read where people ask questions, only to get silly answers like "take it to a garage" (which is not what they asked for) is unreal. how do people learn, break barriers...
i disagree.
its a pin that stops the crank moving. simple piece of metal of the correct dia.
and any piece of angle iron that can check the cams are in-line with each other will work fine. how will it not??
as i said earlier, the key is not to use the locking tools to torque things up, they...
the only real advantage is elimination of slippage.
you cant get wheelspin on a hub dyno simply.
only a problem on high power stuff though really, more so turbo cars with aggressive power delivery, which can be difficult on twin drum rollers.
for a stock 172 you should be fine on either system :)
ive done 1 f4r belt....
i dont want to get into a willy waiving contest, but im not exactly new to engines, ive built countless.
i build, design, and map my own drag car, which makes more power than per cc than any car i know of.
if you think your the only guy in the world capable of...
yes, pretty much the same kit i got to do mine.
people complain they "bend", the fact is you shouldnt use it to hold the cams while you torque them up.
THERE FOR SETTING TIMING ONLY :)
im sorry but only a plonker would get the pin in the wrong hole!
take the spark plug out of number 1 cylinder, and put a long screwdriver in there, watch it going up and down as you rotate the engine,
when it stops going up and starts going back down you have clearly passed TDC. use that...
i did mine yesterday, and i have never done one before ever.
furthermore, i didnt use the renault locking tool.
ignore the scare mongers, its really not difficult.
i thought the 730/736/738 was the engine code, not specifically the head?
i guess i will just take the fact it has cnc ports to be confirmation its not a meg/lag head :)
i`ll just run it down the strip next time im out with the honda, its it cracks 93mph or so, i`ll be happy its 172 ish
i dont think its a 182, or 172 head, this is my point. i think its just a laguna/meg head.
it does have cnc`d inlet though, so if megs/lagunas do not, then i suppose im good :)
but back to my question, does noone simply have a part number cast into the head that would confirm?
hi all, ive just replaced the cylinder head, and cambelt with all tensioners/idlers etc on my ph1 172 (i bought the car with snapped belt). all is well, car is running fine, im a little worried though that the 2nd hand head/cams i bought maybe from a megane/laguna, and not a 172, the original...
double the power for adding a turbo is childs play, i run a 1590cc honda motor that makes 120hp stock NA,
i have turbocharged it, it now makes 498hp, over 4x stock power.
as for laggy for a 30r, thats of course all opinion, i dont believe it is, but what i said was correct, it will make more...
small turbo for a 2.0l engine imo.
of course it depends what your using the car for/how much power you want.
i wouldnt of gone less than a 30r, would make a fair bit more hp per lb of boost.
i ran a gt28r on my renault 5 gt, 1397cc :)