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TBH I'd love to own a Trophy but for a daily I do like having whatever extras I can, like the Xenon lights and Climate control/automatic lights and wipers. Coming from an E36 Coupe to the Clio was a nice step even if the BMW had climate control. I have been spoiled over the years I know! My...

As an owner of an FRP I am surprised. You could say the same about an XR3i vs RS Turbo. I know which ones are fetching more :wink:. As a better example I know which has been worth more over a decade between a Sierra RS500 and a normal 3 door Cosworth :wink:. There's not 'many' differences...

I regret going from Aero wipers to normal wipers TBH! I've picked up a new whistle at motorway speeds which goes as soon as I start using the wipers!

That is a very noble jesture you did. If only there were more people out there like yourself. However, I was born a cynic. I would personally do the cooling system since you have agreed to it and cut your ties there. Some people who see the goodwill of others also see it as a licence to be...

From a monetary perspective I say buy the best Trophy you can afford. Yes you can potentially get a better Clio Sport for your money and do what you wish with it but the Trophy will always have the exclusivity. I am in two minds with what to do with my Clio with Trophies the way they are at...

If you have the original Renault leads I would try to refit them. On my RST and other cars (Civics and Porsches) Magnecors have always given me some kind of issue. I am not saying they are the fault but any faults in the way will not help matters.

I was considering getting the full VB kit for my Clio but it seems that only the top mount on my engine is tired with the rest looking quite decent. Is the road kit the same as what K-Tec sell? If so the noise from those mounts looks to be terrible if Youtube is anything to go by.

What they said above. I now also own a car which has been made to go significantly faster than stock. While it is lovely to drive it is a pain to maintain!

Wavetracs are not built for every car. The cars that it can fit seem to be based on cars in America :). When you are changing the oil as often as the engine oil it can become a pain. OK maybe I sound lazy but I rarely get time to keep two cars in check now with basic servicing alone! As for...

Aren't turbos meant to give off a slight amount of mist anyway and last quite a while in this condition, due to the nature of how they are lubricated? I know many Land Rovers have *damp* but not wet pipes with no signs of blue smoke etc. Of course there is a difference there is plenty of oil...

I have managed to get the Elf stuff for less than £30 as well as part of a service kit.

How long is a piece of string? I was in a similar position before. My car had the belts done 5 years ago but the car had only done 40,000 miles. In the end I changed it because my dephaser was rattly as well. The other reason is that with this car being my daily I did not wish to take any...

I hope for your sake it is an injector. It does sound rather sewing machine like which could be the valves clipping the pistons although it does tend to be alot louder than the video. Where did you get the cambelt done? Was the noise present before? A simple retime may sort it.

I think what people are worried about is selling a car with a marker on it. The same people seem to forget that there are cars out there that have been hit badly and avoided the insurance marker as a result. Christ, I have done it once (with my Porsche 944 ; if it was on a agreed valuation I...

check for 12V being present on the other side of the cable's fuse (i.e going to the starter etc.) while having the negative of the lead to an earth point; engine etc.

IMO it will be the sliders. Someone had refurbished mine with copper grease only for them to seize quickly again. Degrease them and the carrier bore thoroughly with brake cleaner and only use ceramic brake grease on both. Assuming they are not bent they should be free to move upon working...

Cup Springs and shocks should be on an FF. Which wheel bearings do you require? For the fronts OE branded ones from ECP should be ok from the likes of SKF etc but the rears are part of the disc. I understand that Renault are the best people for this if you wish for the bearings to last any...

How did you diagnose it and where in the column can you detect the play? Was a new column expensive?

Mine is remapped with a receipt to prove it and until now (touchwood!) it was always a little funny when cold ; it used to hesitate at light throttle at 2.8k. Since I have put in a new genuine thermostat that issue has completely gone away away it seems. I have tried at times to see if it will...

Which is why you want a 172 with the twin exhausts, Turinis and Cup spoiler ;). You also get a spare wheel, handy if you get a severe flat. I know of one near me. Oh hang on... A friend and his brother both own a 172 (with Eibachs and fresh Cup dampers) and 182 FF. He said out of the three...

It is interesting to see another audio build in a Clio. I am debating doing one myself, but have kept to only fitting an Alpine CDE-178BT in for now. I could not be asked to fit in the 9887R head unit with the Bluetooth box! What are you doing for processor power etc.?

I'd agree with the above if his car did not crank over when the no.2 key position is "tricked". It still sounds like a strong starter.

I have had another thought, but I would expect a few things to be dead in the car including the lights etc. Have you checked for continuity at the starter motor fuse? It is built into the positive battery terminal.

The other thread with a no start issue. http://www.cliosport.net/threads/172-will-not-start-video-attached.781899/#post-10890823 I cannot say as I have only once had this issue but on another car caused by another fault (Google Passat B6 Steering lock issue if you wish to look into it). If...

And a video, albeit a poor one! If you have had the key by a magnet or something like that there is potentially a chance (albeit a very slim one) that the immobiliser chip has gone on the piss. This works independently of the keyfob bit (that only arms and disarms the alarm, thus the opening...

Mine goes as follows (unless mine has a fault, although I guess the cars are French!) No key or no.1 - flashing LED light No.2 (Ignition) - all lights come on with most of them going off in a few seconds. LED goes solid in the process and then extinguishes out. Running - No red light.

I have just checked my car. It looks like you have an immobiliser fault. I'll put a video of mine up soon.

Keep an eye on the immobiliser light next time. I am about to update another thread regarding the immobiliser issue. Basically the light should go solid once the ignition is on (Key position No.2) and then go off again.

The Volvo engined Fords is a known one, causing much confusion at the dealerships when people come to order the switch (they cannot find it!). I initially though my sister's Mondeo 2.5T had a fault until I read the manual where it stated the 2.5T does not have an oil pressure warning system...

He only has one key... I'd see if someone has access to CLIP near you. Hopefully that should surface something. I'd say it could be something as simple as an ignition relay. OTOH you could have no fuel in the car. For the sake of a £10er I'd throw some in...