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Instead of being hung up on what power its making, try and concentrate on how your improving the driveability. Ive matched LOTS of inlets on the RS range, and ive NEVER had anyone comeback from a test drive without saying words to the effect of "suprised at the difference"..you DO get a...

Which garage in Carlisle did the work? If they havnt replaced the cam seals, they havnt used the correct tools for timing.

Yeah ITB's are the way forward, its not just the gain in peak figures, but as has been said by danny the torque spread is increased...i.e torque everywhere is increased. This makes the car a whole lot quicker. Add to that the improved throttle response and its a win win situation!

What problems are you having?

Has he fully mapped one on itb's yet? "running" is one thing, running correctly is another. Until its been done succesfully I wouldnt count it as an option tbh. ITB's and aftermarket ecu would be where my money would go. If Paul can offer a remap for ITB's that works, then obviosuly dont...

Yes, petrol, or alcohol based solvents arent a good idea imo due to evaportion. Water is as good as anything.

I can do it, but it would be a custom install, and my preference would be to build an engine suited to such a set-up including forged pistons. I built one earlier this year (williams engine) fitted to a Spider. This made 311bhp at just 8psi, at Track&Road in essex last week. Email me if...

It dictates the gear ratios, and final drive ratio. If you give me your email address I'll email a PDF which includes the majority of them.

Yeah thats been hitting something, which has obviously weakened the threads and made it blow out. Plugs blowing out isnt uncommon, but that damage to the tip suggests something more untoward. Just to clarify, it wasnt tapping before they removed the engine, but was afterwards?

Sounds like the circlip isnt retaining the diff properly, so its not meshing with the pinion gear correctly. For the price of them, i'd fit another box.

flywheel bolts and fitting a shear-pin to the flywheel were two other things which popped into my head just now! Added.

In theory, if your filtration is upto scratch, theres no reason why you cant leave it on indefinately, and just check the belt regularly for damage (stones/debris can cause damage easily to them). I personally would whip it off (the pump) and strip/inspect/clean it every few months, whether...

You would want to investigate the durability of the rockers. I'd fit a paddle clutch, I dont like taking standard ones past 8000rpm at a push. Make sure the rods and particulalry the bolts are decent quality. Make sure your oil supply is adequate, increased rpm requires higher pressure...

I'd imagine they will strip it, check for wear/damage, and adjust the pressure control as required. It depends how much use your going to give the car/engine... Is it a road car?

Yes, the ones I have were off the older cars...

You can convert them easy enough on the f4r's, take one apart and machine some bar to fit inside. Solids for direct to tappet engines like the F7R are £28 each! Crank will be fine.

Are you sure the mount is on the inlet side? Ive got a couple of set-ups here and they mount on the exhaust side...aye the mounting points on the sump pan are on the rear of the engine. I had a guy round 2weeks a go with one in a mk2 clio, he made a mount to re-locate it to the front...

You have to mount the pump on the inlet side of the engine, as when mounted on the exhaust side, on the sump pan itself as per the formula renaults, it fouls the n/s driveshaft. So make a mount up to suit. Other than that, pretty straight forward.

no need to remove rack if your just swapping a box..

Remove pinch bolt from the rack to the column, tie bars between chassis legs and subframe, and it should come down a good foot or so. Slacken the drivers side bolts by an inch, and remove the passenger side ones completely.

Im only pulling your plonker pal.. :)

Which doesnt have cnc'd ports again? :p

Typically H section rods use a larger diameter bolt, therefore different torque is required to achieve the clamping force. If you have tried 40lb.ft and it locks up the crank, you need to look at your bearing clearances. Have you measured them? If so what were they?

email me at info@ap-developments.com if you would like a quote.

What diameter are they? I.e on std rods? If so 40lb.ft Stretch is 0.15mm i think, can double check tommorow if your still stuck.

Bent selector fork?

Matt, how do you rate Sadev's own SWL electronics?

Yes, ala the grpA mk1's, thats not to say they HAVE to mount to the subframe this way. They accept standard renault front mounts as used on the renault 19's, and rear mounts as used on the R5 ;) Mine is having custom mounts to mount to a tubular subframe, but it has been mounted in the...

You dont need any modified mounts or subframe or driveshafts with the cup-racer boxes.... The ST75 runs flange type shafts, the SDTSA as in the cups dont. You'll need: box, lever, display, flat shift ecu (if you dont have that facility on the ecu you are running). If your running in events...

I dont know why you would fit one to a road car tbh... Ratios arent ideal, not the smoothest thing to drive round town, quite expensive for no "gain". Std boxes are fine for the road...