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Lol, some very different prices flying about for these! Do Renault make it up as they go??!

Thats weird, I just remembered I requested a price from West's Renault on here and he came back with How did you get them for £13? Unless he got his wires crossed or it means £27.22 for both

There's basically 2 main options, keep your wishbones and get Poly bushes fitted or buy new genuine wishbones and stick with standard bushes (think this is what I'll do) The new ones also come with new ball joints included so always a good thing :) Racks are pretty expensive yes, and such a...

Ideally you need to get it up on a ramp so its still got the weight on it and get someone to turn the steering wheel whilst you're under it listening to everything and seeing if the rack moves at all. The problem is it can "sound" like its coming from something but may not actually be from that...

The thing is it started pulling about before I did the track rods, which is why I changed them. It didnt make alot of difference, it just sharpened up the initial steering but still wanders about. The shocks are only a year or so old too which I know can make it duck and dive about. Obviously...

Ive also recently done the track rods and ends. Ideally I want to do the wishbones too but they're not the cheapest, so rack bushes is next. I do hope its them ;) If its the rack itself I wont be pleased :( Its not a common problem for them to go though

It just feels "wrong", has a mind of its own when accelerating, and follows every dip in the road. (I had the tracking done last november, and went back again a week later, albeit after a track day and it was miles out again) Also when braking hard on a not-so-perfect road its really quite bad...

Mine starting doing this a few months back (also stopped when it was jacked up) then suddenly it dissappeared BUT the car now handles terribly and pulls itself all over the place. Its really making me think it could be the rack bushes. I REALLY must get round to doing them :/

When you say showing 50deg on the dash, do you mean on the top display where the clock is or on the display next to the A/C controls? The fogs could just be a fuse gone, as neither of them work. Check behind the panel on the side of the dash (you need to open the passenger door to see it) Not...

Its been covered before so try searching ;) but to make life easy, Front brakes are easy: Loosen wheel nuts Jack up car and remove wheel Undo 2 caliper bolts on the back of the hub and move to one side Undo small screw/s on disc face Remove disc Reverse procedure to refit new ones Rear...

I just wrote it all out and lost it lol FAIL!!! Bare with me....

Is the rack kit 26quid for both sides? As in a pair

I'll convoy from Norwich with you guys, probably from Thorpe too :) Yours is too far out of the way Phil lol :P

1. DannyR - Bury 2. Quinton - Bury 3. P17 TOO 4. Tom-173 5. hiben1 - Bury 6. Canary172 7. Dmallett 8. Ste101 9. scaryopa- MK/Bedford 10. Chri5

Whats the 5 Cylinder engine above out of? A Volvo of some sort? T5? :)

Have you got the full link? its just sending me to the Play store for the app

Well as it happens, I have that exact book for sale in the for sale forum ;)

Don't forget to check them every time when they're cold to get an accurate reading across the board. Well at least after the same amount of driving anyway ;)

Me too, I did all the stuff bar a few of the side missions! Once all the outposts are taken, theres literally only a hand full of enemies in a couple of places so you never really run into trouble :( Im debating starting another save and going back to the start ;)

Anyone here? we both looked over at the same time lol :)

Ive noticed today a similar problem, but the opposite way. Usually my light comes on when the needle is on the red line on the gauge, it always has done. But today, out of the blue, it just came on with the gauge pretty much where yours is above ^^^^ Whats that about?? :S

195/50/15 are £58.49 here http://www.ears.co.uk/p5646/195/50-15-Toyo-Proxes-R1R-82V-Fast-Road/Track-Day-Tyre/product_info.html

Christ R1-1's in 16" are £133?? 15's are only £60-70, thats mental!! If they're mostly for track use it may be worthwhile getting some 15's. Ive never used Contact 3's so have no idea, but they arent "track focused" tyres, the sidewalls will no doubt be softer and the compound harder, than all...

Lol ;)

Not sure personally, but I think most of these remaps only pop and bang when over 4k rpm, and I cant say I ever go spanking past the police at over 4k ;)

I agree, tyres first as you've already got decent springs, ARB etc which are more than capable on track. You could go the "halfway house" route and get some track orientated tyres like RS-R/R1-R/AD08's which are a fair bit cheaper than 888/48R's, but still very good for track use? The money...

I did notice something similar in mine after changing to cup alternator setup. I'm not sure whether its something related to the belt tension or possibly a bearing. G also swapped my PAS pump at the same time. But its been fine for ages and never got worse. what setup are you running?

Have you checked the bottom ball joints lately? I replaced one about a year ago but it was only a cheap one and its got play already, very noticeable over rough surfaces like you described.

Ah yes I've seen them on Ears come to think of it, cheers! that's fair enough mate, I'm just speaking from my personal experience :) I was debating between rsr and these last time, but at the time couldn't find the rsr for a decent price. I actually meant the r1r's for 60 but I'll keep an...

I never meant to imply they were better but I've no complaints :) all depends on the driver as to how good a tyre you need in those conditions