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full sized pot, will bring it with me as well as others at the end of the month

I did consider the oro wax and cleanser but I've hardly tried RG55 yet, or my migliore sample

Problem with black wheels, tyres always look dirty and need dressing. Looks like an interesting stop gap project. Curious to see where it all leads

What did you use to polish and wax with? in theory the polish should have removed anything left on the surface, and the beading should have performed as per the wax over the top, regardless of if the lifeshine was underneath or not, certainly for the first couple of weeks anyway

Fairy liquid will go some way to diminishing any waxes or sealants but unsure if it will completely remove it, but a good place to start with your wash. maybe next try a tar and iron remover as these aren't wax safe. using a clay bar will also go some way to removing them. Hopefully the combo...

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Gyeon tire and wetcoat

C2 works on any surface and works well. C4 is a semi permanent coating, not dressing and provide that the proper prep to give a bare clean base it typically lasts 18 months maybe more. If the prep isn't right or not clean it won't bond or last. After a thorough clean a wipe down with IPA or...

I tried one and it was very thin and flimsy, didn't really spread the wax all that well or wash out. I know they're expensive in comparison but I dont buy anything else other than the megs applicators

For the tar spots, a tar remover can be sprayed on and wiped off, Carpro TarX or Autofinesse Oblitarate Rusty spots can be dealt with with a fallout / iron remover like Carpro IronX or Autofinesse Iron Out

It won't remove deep scratches, nothing will, as you can't remove them without adding paint. It can remove light marring and minor swirls. It's a great cleanser and will freshen up dead, oxidized and faded paint

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menzerna for a beginner, they seem to be fairly straight forward and easy to use with a basic technique

approved detailer only IIRC. From comments I've seen, if you get it wrong its considerably more difficult to rectify than existing coatings. normal C1 and like coatings are difficult enough as it is if they're left too long, over applied etc

its UV damage and stone chip / abrasion on the plastic lense so all you need to do is work it back down to unaffected plastic. I've heard reports of the 3m kit being pretty harsh but not used it myself. I went and got 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit wet and dry sand paper and rubbed them down, then a...

All jap paints appears to be quite soft.

You''ll be pleased with the results from blackhole. Are you applying by hand or machine?. Alternatives would be britemax blackmax, prima amigo. What colour cars are you likely to be using them on, and finishing with what wax or sealant?

All colli products seem to give great beading. Keep considering buying another one of their products for when I just want some hardcore protection

Last time I spilt my nail varnish .... :p If it's clear coated maybe try some IPA or panel wipe first. Nail varnish remover is pretty agggressive IIRC. Is there a hidden part of trim you can try it on first? Maybe have a wet MF close to hand to wioe away the remover as soon as possible?

Yes, it's a very good bare pH neutral shampoo with no wax or gloss enhancers. I buy it in 5ltire bottles

Wax or sealants will protect the paint and finish, dependant on product between 2 and 6 months. Desire typically 5 to 6months. Just wash the car with a wax safe shampoo and the car will remain to look good as long as the wax is still performing. Using a quick detailing spray after washing and...

Could it be a fine layer of dust over the car since washing? washed mine yesterday and this morning was dusty again. anything between the paint and water will affect the beading. Don't worry about it yet, and see how it performs during the next wash.

Pots of Desire come up for sale 2nd hand on DW at decent prices.

What was that ^ Looks like it's long past needing to be removed and re waxed

Bsd gives great water behaviour, it there is nothing else about the product that I like. It's nicer to apply over a sealant than wax though. I still choose to use something like prima slick/ AF Finale / diluted C2 provided that my base protection is still performing. Sonax polymer net shield...

it depends on how bad the corrosion is, if it doesn't take to much to get back to a good base then clear coat them. A did it to a set of wheels that were fine for almost 2years then sold them on. Planning on doing it to another set this summer 100% will corrode isn't quite true. As everything...

If it's bare alloy, try something like mercury on a MF cloth, then with fine wire wool if more is needed and work back. Would be best to get them clear coated once you've cleaned them up to help protect them, then use a proper wheel sealant

Is the outer rim bare metal or lacquered? If it's lacqut then metal polish isn't needed, just any normal paint polish. If not autofinesse mercury or autosol. As for sealing, get the prep right and look into GTechniq C5 or Carpro DLUX

Get down to hobby craft or a model hobby shop and get some fine paint brushes for a few £

All Zymol waxes that I've tried have lovely water beading initially but never found it last all too long. One of the best that stays has been Colli 476. Struggling to think of anything amazing under £50, maybe a sealant like reload or C2 is best used to give the beading results