Search results

so, all you have at present is; headunit corner speakers, (front & rear) driven by the headunit sub..... you listen to all types of music.... i'd go with a sealed enclosure and an amp capable of 1000watts rms into 2ohm impedance..... this will give nice tight bass with a fair amount of...

Sorry mate..... sq----sound quality. (output not an issue, just pure quality). sql----sound quality loud. (a loud system that retains reasonable quality). spl----sound pressure level. (pure output, its all about the numbers). a speaker merely reproduces sound based entirely on the signal it...

some relevant information would be ideal mate; 1, enclosure type & size... 2, type of music usually played... 3, desired effect, (sq, sql, spl)... 4, front end specs, (components??? amp???)... a speakers RMS input is measured at 0dB.... an amps RMS output is measured at a specific voltage...

any witnesses??? you contact your ins, they in turn contact his/her ins, they then contact him/her, they deny it....both ins houses squabble, agree 50/50 to save money.... you lose no claims bonus, they don't because they aren't bothered.... in short, the only loser is you.... in future...

can't really comment on this company because i personally haven't used them.... when buying car audio on-line i only use two retailers; caraudio&security caraudiodirect when using car audio security its always best to check out their EBAY shop, on a number of occasions the price on-line is...

0awg ftw.... if building your setup in stages its always best to buy the correct cable for the finished job....that way you buy once & fit once.... you should also consider how many rca leads you will eventually require also.... with regards 'wiring kits', about the best value kit available...

I've been without a spare for about 3 years now.... i always carry a can of 'tyre-weld' just in case....and my spare is easily accessable at home, (simply phone a relative, friend etc etc), and get it brought out to me..... if driving any distance which involves motorways or dual carriageways...

It's a hobby, i stumbled onto this forum when a certain Clio owner was having his LOUD Clio slated..... whilst following that thread it became apparent that a few Clio owners were asking questions about car audio which i could answer, so i carried on posting..... i also post on other forums...

you probably won't..... with regards 'non fault' accidents, they shouldn't affect your policy premium in any way.... in your situation i would be inclined to inform your insurers that you wish to press on with your claim.....your insurance company will arrange for your car to be repaired, they...

thought i had best come clean.... I don't drive a Clio.....the closest I've ever come to owning one is a Megane.... if you were to search my posts you will find i only post in response to questions regarding car audio, i don't claim to be an expert, but i would class myself as being almost...

where's the problem with running low passed 6x9s suitably mounted in/under a decent parcel shelf.....he doesn't want a sub, so imo the 6x9s is the next best thing......

You say you don't require/want a sub, because of this i would be inclined to opt for components up front and 6x9s in the shelf, (or under it)..... The Alpines you linked to are meant for use in conjunction with a sub really, (hence the fairly high lower freq response of 70hz), also the...

sorry mate, this ^ is incorrect, switching a speakers polarity in this fashion is quite common in car audio, it simply alters speaker 'phasing'..... in 99% of cars, running power cable with rca's won't cause any issues, the power supply in the car is DC, and most rca leads are shielded...

can't help without relevant info... headunit make & model... amplifiers, make & model of each... basic explanation of wiring...(power & earth cable sizes....amplifier earth site etc etc).... does your mate know what he's doing, if he does, get him to rectify this for you.... a better...

OK, they should fit with no issues....simply follow these posts.... you like the way they perform off headunit power, (at most 10watts rms on music), imagine how they perform correctly installed & driven, (yes, i know your simply running as if at lower volume, but, with fairly low...

i assume they will be driven via an external amp in conjunction with a sub??? if not, then your wasting your money.....

both items linked to will do what they were designed to, whether this suits your setup or not can't be commented on because i have no idea what your currently running, or how you plan to run in the future.... it should be pointed out that both items you linked to have flaws, it just depends on...

with regards freq response; depends on what freq's you require them to play, if you are using a sub, they are fine...if your simply using them full range off your headunit,(not advisable, but will cover that shortly), then they would be fine, but if using full range from an amp then they are...

sorry, didn't see this till now it's 1watt input power measured at 1 metre = --dB volume (basically an industry standard for measuring speaker sensitivity)... hope that helps...

here's a LINKY to a thread on 'TA' regarding a friends setup problems in his car, all sorted now he has a new Pioneer unit....

ok, this is a common problem area that seems to catch quite a few people out, (caught me out around 20 years ago when i was first tinkering with car audio)..... the distortion your talking about is down to the headunit.... as stated previously a speaker merely reproduces sound in accordance...

with regards tweeter placement; i would suggest you try them in a few locations before you make your final decision, subtle changes in position and aiming can yield decent improvements, but i would also avoid over stressing about it unless your considering competition.....to test different...

did you actually read my initial post?? a speaker simply reproduces sound based on a signal it recieves, if this signal is 'clean' the reproduced sound will be 'clean'....fitting upgraded speakers with higher power handling would imply a heavier suspension, this coupled with lower sensitivity...

i assume this post was directed at me.... Pioneer did headunits with bridgable rear channels... Rockford also did a few... the above were probably a little before your time though mate.... so...... Read This regarding mainly later headunits.....

a better idea would be to replace the Sony....(assuming it isn't a pre 2000 model).... if it says X-plop on it then i would advise selling it on.....

specs on those Alpines suggest they would be OK off headunit power, but i personally would amp those particular ones.... i would look for a set that are 90+dB at W/M

this depends entirely on personal preference, best results in terms of quality would be to run without rear speakers full stop, others would say you can't beat components for rear fill, i say, "if it sounds right to you, then it's right".... try getting to some local meets and having a listen...

the only time you should replace stock speakers for higher spec items is if you intend to amp them....if your not intending to amp them then you will achieve very little,(in some cases its actually a step backwards)..... your Sony is probably peaking at around 80% volume, which would equate to...

on some headunits it is indeed possible to bridge the speaker outputs.... however i very much doubt yours is capable of it....(think you mention you have a Sony unit somewhere)..... by bridging two channels you effectively halve the impedence and double output....problem is you also double the...

i understood what you posted the first time around mate..... the 'dumdum' thread was aimed at previous posters who had given incorrect responses, not to belittle them, but to educate in a way that is easily understood.....