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all my local halfords dont stock panel wipe other than in small amount packs of wipes and wasn't overly impressed by them. Best speak to some local bodyshops as some may sell you a little. if not a proper car paint store, mine is over 25miles away but well worth a visit. Or as you're...

I've had this trouble with almost every whel brush I've used, just that the EZ brush actually cleans properly and lasts whereas all the cheaper ones I've had don't. It's not quite so bad on sealed wheels thankfully

Or if you want something you can pick up in halfords, auto glym intensive tar remover . But compared to the above its nowhere near as good

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/tar-bug-and-fallout-removers.html

Tar removers like autosmart Tardis or auto finesse oblitarate. Spray on, leave to dwell for a few minutes. But don't let it dry. Then wipe of with a MF cloth or applicator sprayed with your chosen tar remover

o you use this stuff over your existing lsp? Does it provide any of its own protection or is simple just water behaviour I can see the need of wheel woolies on grubby wheels, but on sealed I can't see its needed

Just seen them on shinerama but never heard of them before

What the hell is Stjarngloss?

It's needs to be super clean before applying,, anything on the paint it will not bond correctly. If you've already corrected then the usual decontamination of tar and iron remover, claying. Then the most important part is a wipe down with IPA or panel wipe

Think of it as an additional, harder more scratch resistant clear coat in one sense. So you don't want to get it wrong as you'll be taking a machine polisher to it to remove it

Ah I didn't think about the new formula which would make sense

I lol hard when he came on the screen, you cruel b@stard I've not heard of leaving C1 for 20minutes before buffing, guess a lot of it comes down to the environment and humidity and temperature. Did they give any reasons etc why it's best to leave it, I'm quite interested in that. When I used...

This? If its paint transfer just get something auto glym SRP and a foam applicator and work it in. Looks like it should remove the worst of the white marks The scratch on the boot looks like it'll need machine polishing but would need to see it properly first

Talking of big fails, my neighbour saw me washing the golf 1st thing this morning, and been out the rest of the morning. I've just come home to find him filling and rubbing down the arches on his mk2 golf that he's doing up. My golf is now grey If he'd have simply said something I could have...

G5 is there semi sealant, g4 is there polish. You need to remove the residue as your wiping it with g2 otherwise it starts to set again. Also are the wipers new or old? Have you cleaned the blades themselves? This part is very important If it's not too bad, a daily spray of your washer...

How fussy is it regarding a base to sit on? I no they released SN Prime but is it really needed. I thought it may be a little like tough coat, more so when I found out that the dodo was opposite AF old unit in Essex

From CYC, AF oblitarate, or preceding elsewhere autosmart Tardis Then a nice QD to use after general washing to return the just waxed look when you don't need to wax, Z6, finale etc

On light coloured cars a tar remover is essential, use it before you clay

It does, just not as well imo

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=221934&highlight=bleeding

Rinse, wash, rinse, spray on ironx, leave to dwell for a few minutes but don't let it dry, all the iron spots should start to turn purple and run down the paint as if the were melting, probably spray on more a 2nd time, agitate with a soft detailing brush, rinse thoroughly then wash again...

I think a lot of people are going to come round to that way of thinking. The durability and dirt resistance of a nano base topped with a rich glossy finish of BOS, Glasur, even vics concourse. Still though many people seem to be resisting wax over nano sealant

Unless regularly topped up I didn't find it to resist tar and road debris for all that long, but the initial water behaviour and clarity were very good. I can see that when over C1 or another nano type sealant the combination would be great. But on its own on bare paint I'd stick with C2

I know Kev, was just being a bit cheeky after an early beer. Z6 & Z8 is on the wish list for when I next need more QD Dan, providing you get the application right and clean up or renew its fantastic.

how much are they respraying? £3500 seems quite expensive for paintless dent removal to roof, new bonnet and respray, new spoiler and respray, and blending in?

Non agreed is pretty poor English Keg, even for a southerner like me to understand... AF oblitarate AF spritz AF hide leather cleaner CG stripper scent couple of random MFs and applicators

Oh dear, lets hope I won't be updating the 'what have you ordered' thread tonight! and I had to force myself not to drop in at AF on Tuesday so that I wouldn't come out with more bits.

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what's your number? call me maybe;)

rinse inbetween washing, de taring, ironx and claying, might be worth giving it another wash instead of rinsing after claying. get tardis or oblitarate once you use up your AG tar remover. get a nice drying towel like the i4d uber yellow towel or CG wooly mamoth tough coat is a very good sealant...