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White/blue smoke tends to be oil burning off; How many miles has the engine/turbo covered? If it was black soot i'd say EGR but i suspect turbo at the minute.

There should be no movement in the dephaser pulley assembly.

I always think diagnostics are worth while but it costs me nothing as I've got a CLIP in my workshop. Moisture does play havock with things like this yes but if its a problem you're better to get it sorted now than in a few months time when its bound to be cold, wet and misserable

As above, deffo escalate this to RUK. What was the £291 for Tom?

You can't I'm afraid. To do so would me busting open the plastic casings which would invalidate any warranty you have. The problem is most likely wiring anyway and if you fancied bringing it to Nottingham I'd gladly have a look-see Mick

If you're sure it was working before then take it back and have it looked at. No need to be arsey with em, just tell em it was working before and now its not

West Midlands "precision" engineering for THE mutha-funking win mate... you can use a 5lb lump hammer to smooth out the low points to I hear

Re: I'm confused!!!! Part buying woes Check the mating surfaces are clean and true as Fred said above then whack on the new gasket with new bolts and be done. Cleaning mating surfaces is contentious as hell - just DON'T use a wire brush, grinder, etc or anything too abrasive as it'll mark...

Chances are it'll be either the Coolant temp sensor or the Pre-CAT Ho2 sensor heater at fault but ideally a quick look at the vehicles live data from a proper cold start will confirm this. Mick

I did the in-laws Zetec Focus timing belt and water pump recently and that, though a similar design, was far easier than the F4R. I'm all for people having a go themselves but if you make your bed you've got to be prepared to lay in it to. mick

Tom, I've found the tech note mentioned above and it is very possible you're vehicle is effected as its in the age range. I need to confirm a few other details with you that will involve you speaking to whoever has your car at the minute. Question: When the vehicle was CLIP'd were codes "DF067"...

Tom, can you PM me a photo of the oval plate sticker from your drivers door jam and/or yor reg? I seem to recall a technical solution relating to various vehicle platforms pertaining to the decoder rings and gave a non-stating issue anda flashing red LED. It was howeve based on specific build...

LoL i've had to sell that matey, i've got a 6wk old daughter now hence the price rises ;)

I bet its the dealer spinning you a line rather than Renault UK. Give em hell mate cos at the end of the day you've got a parts invoice that clearly states a brand new UCH was purchased recently by your Technician mate who fitted it to your car. I don't know of anyone in Harlow I'm afraid but...

You sure its the pedal squeeking and not the servo making the "squeek"?

Me, you'd be looking at £35 for the CLIP test and from there we go forwards. My normal rate is £30 an hour but I don't bill religously by the hour.

Not too bad - about £38 for a genuine unit vs £25 for a cheapo. Again, that's a total guess and ideally it needs a diagnostics session.

Total guess: Crank Position Sensor

Erm yeah, that's 100% NOT right and proberbly the cause of the solid pedal.

Head bolts almost always come as a pack so you need to order x1... if ECP are charging £19 each then i'm gonna be quids in under cutting them! Don't buy those gaskets - if you buy a decent quality "head set" for the vehicle it will come with them along with cylinder head gasket, exhaust...

Should do yes

Have the thermostat operation checked and maybe fit a new temp sensor?

It can go either way depending on what exactly has gone wrong. I've just done a servo on a 2001 Scenic which was braking fine but was hissing. That turned out to be the main seal had partially flipped allowing air in when the pedal was pressed. If its been in to a "Garage" then anything is...

I've used FAG units before without any issues... last just fine unless you're an idiot who attempts to bash em in with a lump of wood and a hammer. I'll do em for you Gouldy, £90 a side supplied and fitted and i'll give you 12months on them to. Mick

Failed brake servo, servo vac. feed or master cylinder.... Servo or vac hose most likely causes. Enjoy swapping it in situ cos they can be "F-U-N" (meaning Fookin Unbelievable Nightmare)

Right, the relays you speak of are the UCH's multi-timer function control relays... unfortunatly I don't believe any of them have anything to do with the starting of the vehicle as they're for things like front fog lamps, wipers, one-touch windows, etc. Most likely going to be a fault...

Too short for fuel rail crash guard. Looks more like an upper timing belt cover stud... one of the two with 16mm nuts on them or somehting off the front of the block.

Firstly, are you sure the oil pressure switch is a good working and correct unit for that engine? Ideally the car needs its oil pressure mechanically measuring as it could be a blocked pickup/faulty oil pump which would be bad... could also be a duff switch or even wrong oil grade. "Plan for...

Check fluid level is spot on but I suspect the pump is about to "do one"

i believe so yes