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Throttle pedal reads 14% too iirc.

Where abouts are you located?

3 degrees for caster, there or there abouts.

You sure? It was at the end of his post ?

Bosch lambdas are genuine yes.

The revs at idle does sound like an air leak tbh.

Yeah, if it's not water in the fusebox then i'm not sure what it could be. Are your carpets dry, particularly the front passenger?

It'll dry out eventually, but some water displacement spray like WD40 or GT86 could come in handy if there are any wet connections. I take it the back of the lights are dry?

Just check for any water in there. Do you have arch liners in still?

Fusebox in the engine bay. Stay out of the puddles.

The shims won't remove the heat @Greeny. just so you know, they just slow it down/stop it from getting to the fluid as quick. Well worth it though.

Lambda's could faulty, these do like to eat them for some reason. Why do they need to 'recalibrate' the throttle?

Looks fine now to leave as it is.

They are the old style.

I'll see what mine says tomorrow, although I don't have a Kangoo to test it on mind. No reason why it shouldn't work if it does list it.

The description lists Kangoo 2000-03.

I have a 907, can check tomorrow for you if it lists that model of van?

I wouldn't strip the shell back completely, just repaint what's needed to sort any chips/scratches/rust and whatever. Remove all running gear, replace bushes and underseal the car while everything is off. Getting someone to do you a full new wiring loom will probably be nearly £1k on it's own...

Loctite 5980, the black stuff. Brake cleaner the area and bolt and stick some under the head of the bolt.

Worth checking that it's not the actual bolt that's holding it in that is leaking...

It's the hook to lift the engine out by.

It means getting the timing adjusted to a certain degree of advance/r****d to the same spec as the group n clio tarmac rally cars were set to. It takes someone who knows these engines though, not your usual backstreet garage. Some good power gains can be had.

You'll never pass an MOT with a 100 cell cat anyway unless it's red hot.

Clutch and/or release bearing is fucked.

Could try and negotiate some sort of discount if you point out that it shouldn't have failed at 40k. Most modern cars should see 80-100k easy with typical driving before needing a clutch.

It is wear and tear yeah, but shouldn't have gone after 40k miles. Will be a tough one to argue though.

Yeah it must have some form of guess work going on inside the software to come up with the figures.

No oil temp sensor as standard, it must be making it up off coolant temp or something.

Ahh right.

Why can't he work on it anymore?