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You missed this then ? http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=752653 With regards to relocating - the wiring will need to be extended and that is going to be a very long drawn out job . Why are you considering relocating the ecu and fuse box ?

If it were serious it wouldn't start at all lol. Might even be a slow pump running first thing and once it starts it's fine . Does it only do it once ? And in the morning ?

Check the fuel pump relay . If it has a poor contact , it will cause the fuel pressure to be reduced and cause what you are experiencing .

Don't take it to the Main Dealer , I would say use a specialist in your area . Let people know where you are and someone will comment on who is recommended and where they are based .

All the way M8 . Needs to be tight .

wozza182 Great pics

Thanks Mark , really appreciate it .

AlexW - Mines still filthy since Bedford . No time for washing it today . Be along soon

-J- , I've not washed mine since Bedford so I'll join the dirty car section with you . Lol

Sounds like the belt is loose. Take it back and get them to check it .

I'll get it anyway and give it a go . Only a bit of time wasted as I'm not paying for it .

What scenic was the shifter out of Chip ? I got me a chance to get one out of a 52 plate phase 2 scenic . Hope it's the same

All I have is the short shifter at the gearbox end along with a new bush . Do you get more parts with the Yanoo kit

Granted the Pure shift lever is an awesome looking bit of kit and tightens it up - I don't want the rattling to be honest . Have you this fitted in the RB182 ?

This looks like a cheap conversion chip . Similar leverage as pure but without the rattling

Is that connector for the barrel reading ring for the chip in the key ? If it is I wouldn't use that live wire . Wouldn't want anything running of of it , just incase you get issues down the line later .

Am I right in saying your 10mm blocks are fitted between the Hub and the beam axle - hence you can use standard wheel bolts ?

Cheers

I'm looking to purchase some soon .

Dr Jekyll and Timmsy Are you both running 10mm at the rear ? pics of this with F1's would be good

Take the door panel off and investigate it . You'll probably find something broken.

If you suspect it's an injector - it's quite easy to diagnose. When you pull off the electrical plug for the injector that's suspect -the misfire on 3 cylinders will be a constant NON upset mis. If you pull off a working injector the mis will be the upset mis. Hope this helps

Yes like I did -lol

Just picking up the Motor - I'll be down soon

This is looking awesome Mike - definitely need to see this once it's finished. Well done so far on it

Looking very nice Lesley .

It's very true . I worked at Renault Uk west london for many years , JPO were head office floater vehicles for press use ect .

Yes immobiliser is designed to work like that. You need to change the clutch cable first to see if it improves the pedal or go all out and have both done at once. With regards to the range of the key Plip - check the receiver in the roof - it might be water damaged . Knocking could be...

I'm pretty sure if the wiring was playing up further back for the crank sensor , it'll have logged a code . Now poor fuel pressure caused by a dodgy relay and playing up when hot may cause this type of fault also. Check the fuel pump relay if you haven't already

Yes please