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you could try lazerlign at kilsby, they did mine top notch
they usually only do trucks but they managed my car just fine (i know them)
but there is no harm in asking
my ecu cover chafed thru the loom by the plug. its a bloody arse of a design.
then again i've lost count of the number of wires and pipes i've repositioned or sheilded on mine since i got it
reno are'nt very forward thinking
^true really scapes your arm. i turn the air blue when i've gotta do a cluch cable on a clio or 1916v
feed something thru the baulkhead from inside and attach it to the cable to draw the cable thru. still an arse tho
if you completely block the pipe to the iscv and the car does not stall its getting air from somewhere else. either the throttle valve is open or you have a leak
thottle valve the bit the cable opens and closes
also try taking off the pipe to the iscv at the air claener end and stick your hand over it for a mo and observe result
to start with remove the nasty awkward and prone to sticking
every 25k throttle cable from the throttle body then ensure by means of a visual check of the throttle valve that this is closed ( in throttle body)
start the car and observe idle speed.
still way too high (and i mean over the norm...
nope, under the new computerised system free retests are no more. after a fail its now a full teat again not just a check of the failed items, also there is no such thing as 'passed after rectifiction' anymore.
check your throttle cable is not kinked and has a nice sweeping curve to it as it comes from the tb. quick check, when its doing its high idle speed thingy lift the thottle pedal by hand and see if it makes a difference