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I don't think there is one.
Bumper off, headlight off - not required but improves access.
Drver's wheel off and sound proofing removed.
Removing the top alternator bolt helps make it easier to get the new belt on.
Make up some sort of tool to release the tension. 3/8" square drive but very...
With the car up in the air when I spin the driver side wheel I can hear a clicking in the diff. Sounds like cogs in the diff turning each other. It is definitely in the diff I have put my ear up close and I can feel it in there when I put my hand on it.
Is this normal? I'm thinking it probably...
How many miles did it take to use that?
I think you have to have fairly large oil consumption before Renault regard it as a problem.
Mine uses a couple of litres between services (12k) and I don't think that is out of the ordinary.
Take the spring out. With it out the valve is set for minimum effort to the rears and that's the way it's designed.
I set mine to max with cable ties for the MOT and you can lock the rears under normal ish braking, so you don't want it in there.
It will come away. Hammer required. The stud seems to fit very tightly into the metal washer type thing on top of the old mount. Stick the mount in a vice and hit the stud with a hammer.
My cup has ABS rings, but no ABS. Well it did on the original rear disks, I'm assuming the driveshafts have them too...
I'm sure some early ph2 172s also had the speedo output from the gearbox.
Can't you use the one the old mount was on?
It is more of a long stud, threaded at both ends with some sort of collar in the middle. I have a picture at home, can post later if needed.
They could have come out of a different gearbox. They switched to having speedo output from ABS rather than the diff around that time. Yours being an 03 I wouldn't expect to have the speedo output. But the 02 172 may have had one and this may mean a different diff/gearbox and hence different...
I sheared one putting them back on even though I used the correct torque setting. I guess they are soft to prevent you damaging the cam cover. Renault had to source the bolt from France only picked it up today. Not leaking even with only 7 bolts holding it on.
I didn't bother with any silicon...
Mine were noticeably firmer than std after the bed in procedure. Maybe you boiled your fluid a little. Try giving the fronts a quick bleed on each side see if that improves things.
What did you do to bed them in? Did you read the instructions that came with the pads?
I did something like 50-20 mph hardish braking about 20 times. Job done. Make sure you let them cool down before you stop.
When I got my second one, my current insurer offered to give me the same NCB discount on both cars even though I was starting from scratch with the second. If I leave I only get the actual number of years accrued obviously.
Worth asking them if they do similar. I'm with Morethan I think.
Bottom right hand side of the block if you look from the front of the car. It is normally quite corroded so you may not be able to read it. It should be on your registration docs also.
The dog bone is under the car near where the passenger foot well ends.
The lower gearbox mount you might be able to see by looking in the passenger wheel arch with the steering on full left lock.
Says on the instructions doesn't it? It was something like braking from 50 to 20 moderately hard 20 times. Then let your brakes cool down before you pull up or you'll start getting vibrations.
Do a search there's loads of info.
Cost probably 140-200. Try Jamsport, AWT and others...
You probably have an RS manifold. You can check by removing the fuel rail guard and having a look. With an RS manifold the benefit is less clear cut. Some people have said it is worth it others have said...
The inlet manifold is a poor match to the inlet ports on the cylinder head.
If you get the inlet matched then the air flow into the engine should be improved hence more power etc.
RS stamped manifolds (late (2003) Ph2 172s onwards) are a better match than non stamped ones but still benefit...