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Although saying that, because it's a Cup without ABS you can use rear discs from any other MK1 or MK2 Clio as the discs & bearings are the exact same parts and the part numbers are only different because of what abs rings are fitted to them. I managed to find a set of genuine discs for a 2006...

Those discs look mint to me, I wouldn't bother changing those, especially if they're genuine Renault ones. Also with how disgustingly expensive the genuine ones are now it's a bit of a minefield with the aftermarket pattern parts as a lot of them use dogshit bearings - I vaguely remember from a...

So you're the Matt I replied to on fb :D From someone else's reply on there saying they've just fitted some & they were spot on, it was the Febi ones I bought that were correct https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193786278522

There's no reason to have to take the manifold off 😳 but it certainly does make it incredibly easy to do the starter, some pics in this thread https://cliosport.net/threads/clio-williams-track-car.803549/ There's only 3 bolts from the gearbox side and 1 nut attaching it to the bracket on the...

They don't tend to survive not having a heatshield, here's the part number & what it looks like, you'll also need the 3 bolts for it, bottom right of the pic is the correct bolt

Go onto Autodoc and search for coolant, in the filters bit you just need to select the yellow colour and it'll bring up all the ones that are the same as Type D I've just bought this to do mine Hey, check out PEMCO Antifreeze in the AUTODOC app https://m.autodoc.co.uk/pemco/15770053

There's quite a lot of updates on his instagram https://www.instagram.com/brooklands.clio/?hl=en

Thread bump to see if there's any new info out there & maybe contribute something useful - got a really really cheap 172 to daily, the pas pump sounds like it's dying & as I'm doing the belts on it I might as well replace the pump too. So no track use and I'm preferring to be 3.14-key as I've...

Just to add, don't buy the aux belt kit if your Cup doesn't have air con

They're still available on Camskill for £69.50, the Nankang's are only any good for dry track use & even then they're pretty mediocre & marginally better than normal road tyres on track. I've had my 172 Cup for 6 years and only ever had PS3's or ZV7's on it, I can safely say that I've not...

Once that's dried I'd suggest cramming a bead of silicone or something similar into the bottom lip of it just to stop anything from being able to get in there & just sit & make it rot

It's actually just in the foot well at the top of the brake pedal so it's not too bad, just 4 13mm nuts and a connecting rod with a split pin

Was an absolute c**t to remove and that was with it split in half, you need to take the engine mount off & pull the engine forwards to make enough room Probably a lot less of a c**t to do if you've got someone to help though

Yes, lucky for me it did it while I was changing the brake fluid rather than while driving

Here's a selection of pics from when I had to piss around with the same problem I couldn't find a new one at all and the new parts I could find weren't the same When I finished repainting it I filled the lip around the bottom with silicone sealant to try & stop anything like spilt brake fluid...

I can show you what the other side will look like and just like the master cylinder, the servo is another thing that I found impossible to find

Nope, I ended up getting a used 1 from someone that was breaking a cup

I'd get in touch with Nightingale's & ask about them fitting your cams as they build the engines to order & don't have them on the shelf ready to go so it's no extra effort on their part

Yes the ebay link is for Nightingale's

If for any reason you need to do any kind of work to the cooling system then it's well worth the time & spending £120 on a set of silicone hoses as a while you're in there thing but as the guy above said, if it's purely a toy kind of car, if it aint broke don't fix it Although I must point out...

Compression test would be the next thing I'd do as you won't get anything more definitive than that. As for the cost of a rebuild (I've just done one on my Cup) it's a case of how long is a piece of string with the "while you're in there" bits 🤣 I got lucky with my cylinder head, it cost...

If it's not rotten then fixing it is deffo your best course of action, especially as it's a Cup, it's worth saving @RichValver is in south Wales & knows a few Clio people in your neck of the woods so might be able to point you in the right direction

I'd say go back to the good old fashioned comparison sites & see what they come up with. For the last 5 or 6 years now, the likes of Flux, Greenlight, KM etc have been utter dogshit on price for me and even worse when compared to what pops up with the generic crap from comparison sites. I put...

You can drill a new hole in that part so you can use R5 engine mounts for proper subframe mounting

Got a bit of mapping done today

Derbyshire force for you, they did the same for me on the Rover, proceed direct to fine, do not pass go, gimme £100 Was at a car meet in Derby with lots of coppers there, I didn't mind too much as it was amusing to watch all the badmanz have to rip of their illegal tints & other s**t at the...

I don't think it will, I suspect that might actually be a 172 cup shaft Ph1 are the shortest, then 172 cup followed by ph2 - I don't know the actual lengths but according to what I could find on Autodoc for the passenger shaft ph1=625mm, 172 cup=640mm, ph2=657mm There's a guy on the Facebook...

Pretty sure they're the exact same parts, it's the 172 Cup and 182 Cup shocks that are stiffer and the 182 Cup that have different bolt spacing

There's quite a lot of adjustment available on the adjuster rod so I'd look at adjusting that a bit more Also worth looking at the handbrake levers on the calipers, I had it on mine that although the levers were moving as they should, the piston in the caliper wasn't moving enough so fitted a...

Is it the same guy from the GTR kebab microwave video at Bedford?