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I have the Sachs paddle clutch on my 172 turbo with a light flywheel. It's about as heavy as the stock clutch but it's very sharp, you need to keep the revs up. For track work it's great. For maneuvering, it's not the best as you need to keep the revs on more than normal. I'm also...

I find it easy enough to heel and toe. Once you are on the brakes the throttle is in a nice position for a quick blip. As long as your tyres are decent and warm I wouldnt expect you to be locking up on track.

There's a pipe fitting under the moulding where the coilpack is.

Clutch and light flywheel as its all exposed.

Actually, im using the MT90, not sure what difference that makes other than it seems to be more expensive.

This is what I have, hence a little gutted to flush it out but needs must.

Mmm, I see on google it mentions to flush the oil after 500 miles. Better put this on the ever growing list of things...

I've got a blackline and its brilliant, seems to be handling the extra power too. Never heard of having to flush the gearbox oil though, where did you hear this @Matt Cup ?

Wish I had this document when I was doing my conversion! The one that came with the kit was awful!

Its crude but it terminates near the coilpack if we are talking about the same pipe.

From memory it goes on the back of the inlet manifold.

I've got this adjustable BG one on mine and its been spot on, loads of adjustment too...

Yeah I got that eventually, same ones I have. Definitely best to give it to a proper alignment shop in my experience. Everything affects everything. So if you add camber you get more toe in (think it's that way around) and vice versa.

To be honest, I'm not sure on caster. Mine has some additional but only because the garage set the mounts up badly. If I was using mine only for fast road use, I'd stick with solid top mounts and not worry about it. I'm not sure additional camber on the road made much difference tbh. I...

Agree with the above. I tried to get my usual garage to do a nice track setup and they really struggled with the castor/camber balance on the top mounts. For reference, I have 3.4deg negative and it's a pig on the road but it only really drives to the track. Personally, I would leave the...

Snapped this one a few weeks ago.

EFA Mine isnt sealed but there has been many car oils all over it. Im shocking when it comes to catching the old oil during a service but my favourite was loosing most of the gearbox oil when the drive shaft fell out during a ball joint change!

Is it even your driveway if its not covered in gearbox oil?:LOL:

I know this isnt what you asked, but there really isnt much wrong with Cup dampers and some lowering springs (grams or Cooksport). They are very nice to use on track too. That said, I think the BC's are just out of your budget and like Brigsy says, the B14's have a great reputation for being...

You can elongate the steering columns mounting holes that are in the dash and that will allow it to be moved over a little. I have this on mine and the wheel is better aligned to the seat now. The plastics behind the steering wheel dont fit as nicely though but they have remained on in my car.

One from Blyton a few weeks ago!

Thats the one!

It fitted both pre and post diff, fortunately.

Not sure if it's relevant but mine is a turbo with a diff too, so it's under more stress than normal and has been fine. Just looked back and I actually fitted it in September last year, before the duff and turbo so it's done more miles than I originally thought.

I can't 100% say for the driver side as I don't have that but the passenger side is fitted on my Cup, by me and has been fine. It even did a track day at the weekend with no issue. If you search it on here you can find the old thread.

Not today but did this at Blyton on Sunday.. Bottle blew a hole in its arse! This was the bodge.

You can definitely get cup ones as I fitted one on the passenger side a month ago. The ebay part numbers were on another thread on here. 130459285215 170612905846

I think the full drive shaft is £50 at J&R, I dont think its worth the hassle of trying to replace the boot for that money.

I presume its to change the brake bias when going over bumps etc. But, like you say, if its not connected, whats the point in it.

Does the bias valve do anything on Cups? If not, just move it to a position lower down.