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@frayz that's what i thought. Titanium ones are lovely, but big bucks though.
I'd like the lotus ones but not at that price. Sure I've seen open ended steel ones before in similar style to those, but cant find them now.
Most go for the Bimmec ones as they are same as PMS, come in various sizes to suit your style (if running spacers or not) and are cheap and readily available.
Anybody use different wheel nuts other than the ones of Bimmec, PMS, etc?
I'd quite like some that are like these.
I had some D1 ones years ago on my old 182. These was 40mm and perfect size, but aluminium. Not sure if that's recommended though? Worried the material will be weaker than steel?
That's my plan James. I have the Loctite 270 here, studs, nuts and spacers arriving this week so will try and do them Friday afterwork and leave overnight. (I know its 4 hours, but this easier for me)
I've got thread cleaning tools (in m12 x 1.5) so I'll do that and blow out all old crap before...
I agree mate. I did wonder why the PMS ones were more money as they dont make them, and come in the same design and sizes as the Bimmec ones, so wonder if they just put the tax up. Same with there wheel nuts. But they are a business, so no blame on them for doing so.
As a buyer, if they are the...
After my current nuts being seized on (I think the tyre place did them up super tight as I cant remove the nut off the stud, but the whole stud comes loose out of the hub) I've decided to buy new studs and nuts.
I've gone for the same AI Tech ones as you as I already have some 90mm ones here...
Ph1s came in both titanium and iceberg. Titanium I believe was the most common colour but only that colour came with shift light and ally bonnet. Only 99 Icebergs was made.
Ph2 172s was iceberg only, no titanium.
Ph2 182s was titanium only, no icebergs.
Mines leaked for the past 4 years! A top up sees you alright.
As mentioned, they all leak unless they've been rebuilt. Its normally the selector seal that goes, which causes the leak and has to be fitted from inside the box. I think rebuilds are around £300-£400 if you decide to go down that...
Heard nothing but good things from the RCK, but seen as you have the ASTs and grippy tyres, I'd be going with the Group N and enjoying it. You've done all suspension parts so it'll handle great anyway.
I've no experience of either but that would be my choice.
(Speaking on behalf of a friend.)
Ohhh ouch!
However my steering wheel will live in this as Steve collected it from me a fee weeks back so part of me is in there too!! @YorkshireKyle
Glad you got all the bits back from Carl @Big_Steve_T after all this time.
Project is absolutely spot on and the work involved so far is 👍👍...
I felt it was worthy of a few words mate. All positive, as it should be.
Yes I'm there. Unless anything changes in the meantime, but as it stands I'm free.
Not a big update, but I changed the seatbelt cover today. Thought both of them has broken but it was only the passenger side. That's good as one of the replacement ones was worn more than the other but turned out to be the drivers side.
Broken one removed and replacement fitted.
Thank you for the kind words. It seems this car has more of a following or fanbase (cant think of better words but you know what I mean) than I thought or even knew. I just like cars clean and well maintained and try to do as much as i can myself and make a record of it. Im no mechanic or...
Indeed mate. That's why it's worth more to me than to sell.
Nearly 4 years I've owned this. (April).
But 1st dibs.... we shall see!
I think I'll get belts done first, then buy another gearbox for rebuilding. Then after that I may buy a spare engine and slowly do it up. Time will tell but...