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Chap from Eston, Jon? Spotted one parked up on Church Lane on Saturday. Looked like a tidy motor.

I’ve been through this Renault diagnostic nightmare too - non-Renault tools spitting out codes left and right. Your fault codes (DF002, DF057, DF135, DF235, DF236, DF152, DF076) are interconnected, likely triggered by the car not starting rather than being the root cause. I had 20+ codes on my...

After seeing that Turkish model, you need to colour-code the bumpers now, Jon. I can't unsee it now.

182 uses a JC5-130 gearbox as standard but I’m aware of an exchange unit - JC5S89 - which was available from Renault. Is this what you’re referring to? The 172 used JC5-129 or JC5-089, which had a speedo drive. The “JC5S89” could be a service part - a remanufactured JC5-130 - or a related JC5...

Lovely job 👏

I’ve tried all of these on my Clio 182 over the last 7 years, except the Continentals, which I hear are very good. Here are your choices: Continental PremiumContact 6 Goodyear Eagle F1 Avon ZV7 Yokohama AD08RS Michelin Pilot Sport 3 All good tyres, but it depends on your use. I switched from...

Sorting out the mechanicals is key to ensuring the car is reliable - neglect them, and that’s where you’ll come unstuck. Things like paintwork, corrosion, and the interior can be tackled as you go, but if the fundamentals aren’t right, you’re in for trouble. If you get a gut feeling something...

Yeah, -2.5 is a fairly aggressive setup for the road to be fair. And as I said, I think Track Torque messed up. -2.2 degrees marginally less aggressive with little to no noticeable wear from travelling back and forth, and it still performed well on track. What's a typical street setup? -1 to...

K-Tec were selling them cheaply at the time. NLA from them now. I can give you the VDO part number—VDO P/N (A2C59513667). Pasting that into Google brings up quite a few. As long as it's VDO and has that part number, you should be good to go. Renault didn't make these, fortunately. Good luck!

Unfortunately, yes :( Thank you for your kind words :)

I ran around -2.5 degrees on my 182 when I was using AST 5100s and planning to use it on track. Toe-out was 2mm on either side. The rear was untouched. The original plan was to drive it back and forth to Croft, which is 30 miles each way. I never got around to taking it on the circuit as I then...

What suspension are you using?

Same part numbers for 172, 172 Cup and 182 so I guess so. I have a set in the garage but I won’t get in there until the weekend, but if you get stuck, let me know.

Never done one tbh. What’s the other side look like?

I’ve seen worse. Take the rubber off and drop in a bucket of DEOX-C for a week. That’ll definitely clean up.

Never actually measured it up, to be honest, but this is mine on factory CUP springs and dampers, with 16" Turninis and 205/45/16 Michelin PS3 tyres. All stock bushes - pretty much factory specification. When properly set up with everything standard and in good condition, they are incredibly...

Good to know you can still get them. I never got to the dealer but glad you got it sorted.

I’m popping into my local dealer tomorrow for some oil, so I’ll ask them while I’m there for you.

NLA from Nissan. Possibly still at Renault.

Catalogue data - https://www.restagraf.com/en/1943-u-nut-clip-o-42-mm-wheel-housing-cover.html I'll check with our parts as we may be able to source them.

Part No - 7703046116. Part of the inner liner. PANEL NUT 4.2 C2 This might work - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/7703046116 or any panel nut with a 4.2 mm thread diameter.

4,3,2,1 - 1 being nearest to the flywheel

Correct!

My first track toy had the 1st gen PMS gear shifter. Absolutely horrible. All you hear on camera was the death rattle. My last car had the new carbon shifter and it was superb. No rattling and smooth as silk.

When I changed my injectors, I hadn’t pushed one of the connectors on properly - usually hear a click - and it sounded exactly like that. Pushed it on properly and it was perfect. So as a complete internet guess maybe faulty injector, although no engine light suggests it might be ignition...

That looks nice, but will probably melt or worse, set on fire. Designed for door trims. I must have had 3 sets of original exhaust trims over 7 years of ownership. My biggest issue is the PMS exhaust tips expand, a lot, and melt them. It’s partly why I opted for 3” rolled tips over the 3.5”...

Those will be great. Just replaced all mine with PS3, but I’ll definitely be going down this route when the time comes.

During my resto, the rear nearside bolt on my subframe was so badly mangled, I ended up taking the engine out - well that was my excuse anyway. It gave me better access. You should be able to grind the head off the rear bolts from underneath. The fronts are inside the subframes iirc so more...