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Chris you need to clean up then lubricate the spring they get a bit weak over time, give it a blast with a cleaning brush then a bit of WD40 should hold the blade against the screen firmer.
Depends really if its a decent battery I've left one for months before and put it on a car that didn't start and it got it going. You want to check what volts/amps its kicking out before you chuck it though.
Trickle charger from machine mart are only about a tenner or so
Gaz get a test light and put a feed to the plugs, see if it lights up - if it lights they're okay. If your really keen get the multimeter out and get the resistance of them.
Really easy to test yourself
1.Small tesco car park dent
2.Small dent in bonnet, don't know what/how
3.Dogbone mount shagged
4.Rear tyres out of shape/bald
5.Chip in windscreen
6.O/s/f CV joint noisey
I left mine for ages and its started working again! A bit wierd.
Its only a 30 minute job really but they can be awkward to line them up on your own say.
WD40's no good really, unless your willing todo it every week say. Its far too weak and goes away eventually, just water repellent really. I'd use copper slip, or even multi purpose grease.
I agree with what your saying about people shouldn't have to grease them, but everything over time...
They're taxing the UK, congestion charges, encouraging car share schemes, recycling plastics etc and whatever else, but doesn't US & China account for over 90% of the worlds pollution??
If thats true do I don't see that we're going to make a significant difference surely?
Edit - I didn't...
Dash top off. Pull back the seal on the inner part of the door towards the front. Remove the 2 trims running alongside the A posts. Open both doors, remove a Clip facing outwards - little black thing. If the doors where shut, you'd be unable to see it.
Remove the cowling around the steering...
You shouldn't need to remove the door card to change the switch really.
To remove the doorcard, take the trims off top left and top right. Remove the little cap in the puller (to shut door) then remove the T20 in there, remove the switch pack and disconnect the block plugs. Remove the T30...
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/it.A/id.36472/.f
A very basic version of what Mikes said really. They light/don't up and go dim etc
*Edit* Dont know anything about ALFAs, this might not fit/work.
Crank sensor aka TDC sensor is ontop of the gearbox bell housing, tucked up against the engine, near the airbox.
Thats what it looks like, these aren't my pics but Hope it helps
172 Cup M6 yesterday, j2. Saw you near where it went to 1 lane because of the overturned transit, you let me in in-front of the lorry.
Went the same way for a bit but didn't want todo triple figures threw the SPECS cameras :o
Lol, only a matter of time. Wonder if they're gonna do the 2.0 DCI 175 in the Clio 3
197 Owners wouldn't like getting pushed off the side of the road by an oil burner :lolup:
I feel safer doing 130mph in my work mates 2.0T 165bhp Megane than doing 70mph in my old RT! This is up the driveway to the workshop on private land of course
Not saying its a good thing, but imagine if you drove the same road every day to work, for, say 8/9/10 years you could probably go...
Its made by Scotts Trading with the flags logo thing, don't go spraying WD40 or something allover your interior lol I just can't remember the damn name
They are quite close to the washer jets normally, the N/S stripe.
From the photos they seem to get furthur apart at the bottom like | \
*edit* Wierd, this pic shows the drivers side stripe nearest the washer?!?
then this one the other way around...
Got a pic before it went in...
Try silicone spray (not the lube stuff the dash cleaner) pull it all the way out and as it goes back spray one side, pull it all the way and do the other. Works a treat