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Daft question, You are putting the battery tray back in?

Just wracking my brain as to whether there’s a metal spacer or washer at the bottom. I don't think it did tbh. Here’s my installation Mine had a washer above the nut. No issues with play.

There was a nice 197 Road legal race car on https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/136832/renault-clio-200-race-car I'm more up on 182s so not totally familiar with the 197/200, but it looks like a good spec.

Will look out for these thank you 🙏 Can you see the images?

I had some pics on my phone when I first bought them. So these are the original 16” Turinis with Cup offset - 16x7 4x100 et 38.5 as found on 172 Cup models. You can see the marking on the front near the valve, then the other markings to the rear of the rim and centre. They were a bit rough...

Yeah. It’s recommended to use 2700 which isn’t a permanent bond, but enough to stop them vibrating out. Just tighten them to 20Nm and they’ll crack off when it come to removing. It’s never happened to me, but I’ve heard stories of people loosening the studs if the nuts get crusty, usually with...

Correct! When the holes aren’t big enough on front discs, it’s recommended to drill them out so the disc slides over the stud shank.

Yeah that’ll suit most tyres. I ran Yokohama 50s which have a reinforce carcass and they worked great with -3.4. Then stuck some A052s on without readjusting the camber down to -2.5 and got spectacular results 🫣.

He mentioned the stud shank or shoulder/knob/wide as he refers to it.

Some tyres can’t handle anymore camber than what you’ve already got. It depends on what you’re trying to do.

These are right. It’s there to prevent the stud touching the hub. Just make sure that there’s clearance. The loctite 2700 isn’t permanent so you’ll be able to take off easily enough. Just nip up to 20Nm.

Mine are going in for a refurb in the morning so I'll take some pictures for you of the markings. Mine are 172 CUP 38.5 offset.

I wasn't too bad, to be honest. Burning through the steel was my initial issue, then getting the rods stuck as not enough heat. Once I sussed that I was away. As luck would have it, the drummer turned out to be a time-served welder. He did a ton of work on my Celica rallycross car and showed...

Awesome work Jon. I still think you're insane :ROFLMAO: The top mounts look the DBs.

1980 - 16 and a Young YTS. Gaffer - can you weld? Me - Nope! Gaffer - See that welder over there and those welding rods, get some of that scrap sheet steel and start welding. If it looks like chicken s**t when I get back in a couple of hours, I'm sending you back to the training centre. And...

Finally caught up with the latest updates to the thread. The car went into a friend's garage last week to get the PAS pump changed over as I just don't have any more spare time in Sept. All seemed to go well and the steering feels much better. However, he discovered a small leak from the...

The calipers and carriers were made by TRW-Lucas for Renault. Here’s what you need if you’re going new. 182 CB22. RH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205833) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW242) LH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205832) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW241) RH Caliper Carrier - P/N (7701047929) -...

On the one I ordered from Renault, my old original cap wouldn’t fit.

I gave £300 for the 15” versions in Gloss Black which didn’t need a refurb. I’d argue the 15” are more desirable (trackdays, cost of tyres). The tyres on mine were Hankook EVOs which weren’t in the best of shape. HTH.

With the new checkstrap in, it was a good opportunity to remove the door pins to check for wear. Not bad condition considering. Gave all the hinges a good washout with WD-40, then applied some White Lithium Grease to the pins and strap. Last job was to apply some Butyl sealing tape around...

My new checkstrap arrived. I went for a decent make as the cheapos are a bit flimsy. Removed the speaker, door handles and electric window/mirror switches. 4 screws at the bottom of the door then lifted the cover up and off. It came off a bit too easy. On further inspection you can...

It has to be said the car has completely transformed under your ownership. Looks really nice in that picture above.

Throughout my six years of owning and restoring my 182s, I've always preferred genuine parts. However, due to occasional supply constraints, I've had to fit non-branded parts from OEM manufacturers on a few occasions. Here's a small list of these alternative parts, which might be useful for...

Just had a thought. Did you put them in the right way around?

The gearbox is on t'other side :ROFLMAO: Edit. Sorry, no it isn't:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: You're right!

Aye, it's an easy enough thing to overlook.

This might work if you haven't already gone out and bought a saw. Depending on how rusted the bolt is to the inner metal sleeve. Spray some penetrating fluid in first and let it soak. Now't to lose.