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fit a roll cage m8.. its the body flexing upsetting the sun roof seal.. or, in the more immediate time frame... check the sunroof seal..., and, drains, they often go down the front quarter frames...

just ask for BRUN... and.. welcome to this dubious mix of personalities...:D

:oops:

Thats a fair point Jas. but I hope you have realised by now that I am heavilly into proof of concept lol.. Nicks kit is superb.. and has shown a sensible increase, and, the ability to keep the mixture safe at the top end.. a lot of differing makes of airboxes / kits will be similar.. you...

aha, I see what you mean.. could be simple spacing of electrodes relative to the central core or external earth point.... (if multiple electrodes), if single, hmmm, interwestin :) probably some sort of capacitive or back emf loop.. yep, that would sorta work.. is it a device that fits in...

not sure exactly where you are stuck from yer description.. but if its the rod end to the tie rod.. ie - you want to unscrew the rod end from the tie rod after removing the lock nut (or loosening it).. then.. what works for me is the following.. use a Stilson wrench on the tie rod.. not mole...

great buzz eh lol !!! ok, well in that case, you answered your own question Luke... your spark, as is, is fine.... it takes one match to start a fire providing it catches first time !. subsequent matches.. or more in a bunch in one BIG light.. dont do diddly... If you have six bombs...

Jeez, Paul, sounds like a Dear Dr Ruth letter lol... :D

but m8.. you will never achieve 172 at the rollers.. due to friction.. the variation is probably more down to the following, in no paticular order ..;) Frictional losses and oil drag. tyre pressures.. with a double contact point the rolling resistance is increased relative to wheel rpm...

fit a roll cage m8.. its the body flexing upsetting the sun roof seal.. or, in the more immediate time frame... check the sunroof seal..., and, drains, they often go down the front quarter frames...

just ask for BRUN... and.. welcome to this dubious mix of personalities...:D

:oops:

most modern ignition setups are wasted spark.. ie, 2 per cycle., one on firing stroke, one on exhaust stroke. The object is to ignite the mixture at a given point and after that its down to cam/ cylinder head / squish design.. in a very inefficient engine design, it may help to apply a second...

Sorry guys, but its not anything to do with 8 or 16 valves etc.. a 16v lump can have oodles more torque low down than an eight valve. what the mind tends to base the figure on is acceleration felt in the small of the back and time.. Question ?..So, you may ask, surely a car that feels to...

QUOTE !!! Nothing is factored into a rolling road test, it is a simple indication of the output power being transmitted through the wheels this is becoming increasingly difficult to get through to you... IT IS NOT a simple indication of power at the wheels !!!. with nothing factored. It...

Car wash !!.. only a fiver (including tip) and the guy gives the wheels a special wash lol.. :)

Brun m8. If the spark you have now is working.. there is no plug in the world that will work better. If you have changed the engine parameters, then the range of the plug may need changing, or the leads, as the voltage to ionise the gap (spark) increases in proportion to cylinder pressure...

lol Dash, thats a concept... !! naw.. dont like Diesels.. bloody great chug buckets m8... Joe...:)

Sorry guys, but its not anything to do with 8 or 16 valves etc.. a 16v lump can have oodles more torque low down than an eight valve. what the mind tends to base the figure on is acceleration felt in the small of the back and time.. Question ?..So, you may ask, surely a car that feels to...

Car wash !!.. only a fiver (including tip) and the guy gives the wheels a special wash lol.. :)

aha.. now I see where you are going awray, and please dont take this as personal, but you do not appear to understand the way a rolling road works, and this is what we are discussing. Some of the aspects you discuss are related to the measured ACTUAL torque at the wheels... this is NOT how the...

no m8.. you need to measure the coast down resistance on the rollers to calculate that approximately.. there is no set figure for transmission loss.. and no relationship of transmission loss to gearing. or better still, put it on a dyno.. ;) as discussed above, the rolling road is not...

spot on Craggy.. ;) and tom, the difference with the hillpower conversion is that you WILL have the mixture at the top end set correctly as part of the conversion. - its not a bolt on, its the full job.

Let me pose a question to you... if the power loss is proportional to the gearing, and at 1.064 you lose 17bhp due to the gearing.. what happens if the gearing is .8:1// do you GAIN 90 bhp at the wheels ??.. ie 360/.8 ?? :confused:

sorry Sir, but you are again wrong in your assumtions. the power delivered to the road is only reduced by frictional losses in the transmission. Kw or bhp are of no relevance as the result is determined by the factors used and still identical. the point here is that the bhp is not reduced...

but, the power is measured on a rolling road for the purposes of this discussion. And, power does not change with road speed, it changes with engine rpm............ the losses from torque multiplication/division are frictional. the reason you will never get the flywheel power at the wheels...

exactly !!!

I also think a few are missing a vital point here... (not you Jon btw !;) ).. meaning.. its not the gun, its the gunner... some cars produce a higher figure at the wheels, some produce a better time at the track.. it isnt always directly related.. often its the fact that the driver is better...

exactly !!!

See the difference? To get 172BHP at the wheels from a standard motor aint going to happen. Final Specific output depends on your final drive ratio, if it was 1:1 then you would get 172BHP at the wheels, but its not, it is probably something like 1.15:1 so your loss is what ever this works out...