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I’d get the plastic ones, they’re way more OEM looking in shape and actually have proper angles to them. The Carbon ones look way too rounded and not at all good. Even if you paint them it’ll look like some odd rounded bulge.
I cannot get on with the 200 front end. It’s like two different departments designed the opposite ends of the car and they met on the last day... “ah, oh well it’s to late let’s just go with it now chaps”
The 197 is a much better looking car as it actually looks like it belongs to the same car...
the 172 I just bought has those awful things and even wheel nuts that have that titanium oily look! I can’t wait to put bright orange bulbs in it and drop kick the wheel nuts into the wheelie bin.
I swear my black 172 must be the only clio in existence that has never had mods like that.
It’s pretty simple really, if your car came with ambers it should have ambers. If your car came with clear, it should have clear.
Modding an early amber car to clear is not cool and in the AAZ1234 numberplate club.
As Dom says, check and I’d get it on a ramp clean and ACF50 the 5hit out of it.
It looks just like my iceberg car, same wheels but FF. I really like the colour, in late afternoon low light it goes almost light blue. It’s a much nicer colour than the titanium silver.
I didn’t really look too...
It sounds great from the front, but I’m sorry I hate the sound from the exhaust. It really grates on me. Best Honda sound is standard exhaust with induction kit...
That sounds sooo much better! Top end sounds so good, almost race car.
Thing is we’re all different and I can understand...
It’s got that bad Honda sound, bit like the noise I could produce on a toy plastic trumpet when I was a nipper.
I’ve never heard a clio sound like that!
If you do get one, get some decent deep or semi deep impact sockets for it. The stubby nature seems like a good idea for space but because it’s flat at the front you’ve got no nose to poke it in tight places as the handle is virtually in line with the front of the impact so it’s actually less...
But it’s not physically real. It can all vanish in a split second.
I’m not that organised to keep things perfectly updated. For me it’s going to be a load of old phones you can’t get on, old CD’s, USB sticks and laptops. I found a 3 1/4” ‘floppy’ disc labelled ‘pics’ and dates the other day...
The irony of that is kids these days will have less pictures to look back on (phone dies, computer gets replaced CD gets lost, USB stick lost etc) compared to poor quality pics of old.
I know if I said to my mum “can I have a look at pics when I was a kid?” They could go to the loft/cupboard...
It’s not really designed for that type of stuff. Guess if they’ve been off before or aren’t corroded then it’ll work but mine gets a lot of trials at work and subframe bolts and hub nuts are not when I’ll reach for my m12.
For someone specifically wanting it to do that stuff I wouldn’t say...
No, it’s no good for subframe or hub nut bolts, you really want a full size 18v gun for that type of stuff. It’ll do the odd shock bolt, drop link nuts, TRE nuts etc. I’d kind of look at it up to 17mm realistically. It will do bigger stuff but it’ll be hit n miss depending on corrosion etc...
Yeah does look like the peg that fits into the bottom of the hub has snapped.
Looking online some seem to be hardened steel and some stainless. Even this make below when you google shows in google images as stainless steel, click on the website and the pics are hardened steel now.
One thing I would say about the M3 is did it have some sort of soft limiter? He said redline was 8k but it almost looked like it needed some more rpms. Sure it was hitting a soft limiter at 7500/7750. You were kind of willing the revs on and it’d be always hitting a limiter... bababa, gear...
Was a good vid, do love these boys proper no BS, down to earth gents. Could watch them all day.
Shame about the roll centre kit, I’ve always thought they must be under some serious stress with the design they way you can lean on these cars with sticky tyres but it looked complete from the...
One thing I’ve never delved into.
So you could easily destroy a 172 engine live mapping it? Just seems strange to imagine something going so easily wrong in such a tuning scenario as a professional mapper.
I could certainly imagine someone bodging up a custom turbo engine tune with how...
It amazes me someone could do such a bad mapping job to destroy a pretty low power N/A engine with such tiny gains to be had?
I’ve had a couple of turbo engines custom mapped and obviously the further you go there it can be a worry, but a clio engine destroyed by custom mapping? Looking at a 5%...
Could have been a nightmare if it’d gone under the aux belt and jumped it.
It looks like the bolt’s worked it’s way further out from not being tightened properly and been rubbing on the pulley. Hopefully hasn’t ruined thread in the block too (looking at the thread damage to the bolt)
I’d be...
I agree to some extent but the fact is it will be a rusty mess if you use an Evo that hasn’t been protected through our winter or leave it outside in our rain. There was nothing stopping you using it on nice days really. Or do you live up North and you’re fcuked for nice days?
I would say...
Amazing job you’ve done by looks of last couple of pages. Will read the whole thread at some point to get the low down on engine etc.
It looks very nicely setup from the last couple of track vids.
Nowhere near as bad. They tend to go on arches and the front panels under the rad on this year.
Evo’s always tends to look good on the outside and go on all the important structural areas of the chassis.
My mate has just bought a fresh import Evo 5 which is mint underneath, had it on the...