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Better replace the rear beam too if you don't like rust. Nothing wrong with those by those pics. Need to look at if they're lipped, although, on a 1*2, the bearings will give up before the discs.

Yep, vac hose to the brake servo. Get a screwdriver down between the inlet and the hose end and it'll slide off.

On a 182, it's the only belt you can see... Front left of the engine bay.

Seems like you want people to hate. I don't hate the wheels, but you're going on the ignore list.

I actively seek the leggy ones.

Only nuts I really worry about torque with is with cambelt tensioners etc, or with bearings. Suspension ones. Use common sense, you don't want them coming loose, but equally, no need to be hanging off a 6ft bar.

WHatsapp'd you princess.

Get someone to put a bar on the wishbone and put a foot on it. Hub will lever down and you can slot one of the bolts in.

£150 to a true enthusiast. I'd be trying Ph1 V6 owners. Would be more, but Snappy's refurbs are so OEM looking! Lol

@Phase1sr Honestly mate, with the condition, I reckon that'll sell for £7.5k. I got £5k for one that granted was lower mileage, but didn't have anywhere near the level of detail that's gone into yours!

Nope, can do it with the subframe in place. Can wiggle the old one out and the new one in with it all in situ.

Yep. No problems.

Yep. As above. I get it out with subframe and engine in place. Fiddly, but possible.

Snappy ones are spot on. Royal ones don't look anywhere near OEM, but quality of work looks good. For me, i'd be going Snappy-man everytime

£250-300 depending on how bad they are.

I've got your torque wrench at mine. xx

On a pinpoint setup racecar, yep. On a regular road car, don't worry, it'll be fine.

I use this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24v-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-Gun-1-2-Drive-With-2-Twin-Batteries-NEW-2013-MODEL-/130933152227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e7c3959e3 So does a couple of the other Failsporters. Brilliant bit of kit considering the price! If you're only a once a week...

Make sure the inlet manifold is bolted down right. Make sure the pipe work going into it are fixed.. Other than that, just have a general listen...

Lol. Noted. Avoiding Mk3's like the plague.

Possible vac/air leak would be my guess.

Post 5 here shows them in white: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/pic-request-172-cup-on-15s.355338/

If you can do a cambelt and swap a rear beam, no reason you can't change a clutch too, just take it easy and do things step by step. Why would you want to remove the box and shaft together? Drain the box oil, remove the shaft, then remove the box. Will be a fiddly fucker otherwise.

~£450 on a 1*2. Not sure how much harder it is on a 197..

Pointless IMO. Mk2's don't rust like Mk1's. If it makes you happy though, crack on.

Tracking check isn't needed after a spring change unless it's a super dooper pinpoint spec racecar tbh.

You'll have much more old oil in the engine than just a filters worth tbh. It's what the filter catches you want out.

Yep, any self tapper. Tiny washer if you want to be able to undo it.

£750 for the Recaros. Ten mins work to swap if you know what you're doing.

Paste values and then do another pivot of all of those values would work, but not sure it's much quicker than summing, lol.