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Lol!...Terrible....
Yeah but all the effort is mainly on bolt on bits, yes its some time and effort swapping bits over but its much more cost effective that doing the sills. I did try finding sills and the fact I couldn't find any was the decider.
Yes, that's what kept the back end in check!
I'm following! Currently debating whether to have the tailpipe just below like I had on my ph1, cut the bumper like you've done or to fit a stealth tail pipe.
That horse is having fun lol!
I set them in the summer on a hot day (RS day at Oulton) and since then I've only checked hot temperatures so the difference in winter may well be higher.
The hi spec 300mm kit is pretty much the same (same callipers and pad size) but with 300mm rotors.
I've got a Gen90 ecu for sale if you want something plug and play.
Any reason for going for gaz gold over some ast sportline 1?
Also 650lb is 110nm, so I suppose you won't use it on the road again, unless you don't anyway.
Had a few good sessions in it at Oulton Park on Friday. Beat my previous best wet lap by 5 seconds but nearly had a moment doing a ton going into druids.
Yesterday I started taking bits off it to put onto the Cup. Kind of a bittersweet moment knowing how well it went on Friday but hopefully...
I take mine to Buckley Tyres. Its £29 for toe and £49 for camber/caster on the front so similar prices to where Paul goes.
My settings are front 3 degrees negative camber, 3.3 degrees positive caster, 20 minutes toe out. On the rear its 1.8 degrees negative camber and parallel toe.
I used to...
I run my AD08R at 30PSI cold, once up to temp they get to around 32-33PSI hot. The RSR I found need a bit more pressure than the AD08, try them around 31-32 cold
Yeah that's it, no point if it's no fun.
It's parked up next to my cup now so I can strip the parts off to swap over.
Yours sounded good going down the pit straight
Fair play, they're very nice figures and its good to see the manifold adding around 10lbft either side of the previous peak torque figure and more top end. Looking at your graph the manifold might even help mine out top end.
I've been looking at the usual 422/423 but I've also been considering using a 197/200 dephaser with catcams 404 and mapping in the continuous vvt control
Some longer trumpets might help your torque no end, those Titans look really short. The 423s have a peak torque band from about 4.5-7k RPM so short trumpets won't gain you anything there.
Interested to see how you get on without the VVT. I'm debating what to do with my forged engine, would be a waste not putting some BIG cams in down the line.
Go to a scrap yard or look on ebay for a Mondeo master cylinder. Guarantee you you'll find some cheap or for free.
Otherwise you've got the cost of the bias valve and all the pipes and fittings.