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13mm socket.

Take the black end cover off with the gearbox in neutral and take pictures so I can see the selector forks. Upload them in here and I’ll be able to tell you if it’s selected a gear itself.

Put some grips on the input shaft and see if you can spin the shaft then. It looks like you’re selecting reverse when you’re saying it won’t turn. With the grips on it should spin. It does look to spin quite easily though in 4th gear, which is disconcerting. When the Jc5 is shipped, sometimes...

It sounds like you’re just selecting a gear to me then mate?

Italy is all I’ll say. You know where the sensible decision takes you. It’s only money. 🤣

What’s your name on there mate? I’m actually preferring rebirth atm myself, over the bullshit buyback b****cks.

I’ve got one of these and it works so, so well. They’re available from: www.manthefuckupyoufanny.co.uk HTH. 🤣

Ph1 is 15/58 mate.

The top one looks closed because there’s no sensor fitted mate, that’s all. You’d be fine to fit your sensor. I can guarantee you it won’t crunch in any gears mate, but if your budget is €350, I won’t be anywhere near that unfortunately.

You can just use the sensor on your gearbox as it’s the crank sensor. Well I can box one up if you want to get a quote? Or, I could meet you at Dover lol

And if you want a rebuilt 130 box, I can supply one. 👍🏻 Or a 129. Or a 089. Lol!

Jc5 089, 129 or 130 will be fine. But the 089 has slightly taller gearing because the final drive is different. Aim to get a 130 as it’ll have the bolt in diff plate where the passenger driveshaft goes in the gearbox. Sensors you’re seeing are just different crank sensors. Original sensor is...

You’ve got 2 choices: Machine 2 half moons 180 degrees apart in the crownwheel. Or Heat the crownwheel up and drop it on the diff. Couple of 1 inch long welds to keep it secure - job done. I’ve done both ways.

Ah fair enough. Well it makes no odds to me if you do, do drugs mate. Each to their own and all that. 👍🏻

Going from what @Yorkshire Pudding posted, he’s not accusing you of being a drug dealer mate. I think he’s aiming at you being on drugs for the the prices of parts you’re supplying?

I’ll be on tonight. 👍🏻

I wouldn’t even remove the high spots. The cam journals are one of the areas that wear and affect top end oil pressure.

The scoring is pretty normal tbh, but anything you can feel with your finger nail is fucked basically. If that is damage to the cam lobe itself, somethings damaged the case hardening of the cam lobe itself. Only way to fix it properly is to replace it mate, and it’s only going to get worse, not...

I don’t like the look of whatever this bit is mate.

It’s difficult to say mate. The ratios also won’t suit a boost motor, but I am wanting to have it setup to work with a oe final drive should people wish.

It’s a 5 speed H pattern.

Elbows to pointy.

Oil leak could be the cam cover needs resealing, or it’ll be the vvt solenoid seal. Former is a cambelt job and the latter is much cheaper!

Not required mate.

3rd/4th synchro are the same as the synchros for 5th and 6th. But, as they’re made of brass they will fail if you use them on 3rd/4th. You have to use the ones specifically for 3rd/4th on those gears.

Sound. Setting off now 👍🏻 So come on then, what’s the next potential project then mate?

I’ll give you £100 kesh. Can collect tonight. Let me know.

Here’s part of the Jc5 dog box kit. You can clearly see the dog engagement teeth here. There’s a lot of work needed though still. I'm wanting to do away with the brass selector forks as well, so this all needs to be added into a redesign.

No wins last night for me, @Cub. Red, Harry, and @DavidDave, but I managed a game with 7 kills and it’s probably the only VR game I’ve actually enjoyed! Lol!

It’s also a very mechanical engagement and shock loadings are huge.