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Are you turning the steering on idle?? When turning I think the ecu controls the revs via a pressure sensor, I think if the pump needs more pressure the revs raise to turn the pump quicker, turn the wheel and see if it affects the revs. Is the engine knocking definitely coming from the top of...

The fuel rail guard is the most forward piece of metal on the front of the engine near the top, it bold over the fuel rail, theres 3 holes in the front of it, 2 of them should have bolts inside them and they should be tight.

Have you tried tightening the bolts that hold it on?

The whole rear beam has a tendancy to twist on big impacts.

As long as its from another 172 it will be the same.

Ive heard it said a few times that it tends to happen on cars with non frequent oil changes. Its a common thing on the 1.6 (k4m) engine aswel. The knocking apparantly is caused by the inner section of the dephaser wearing, and then shifting back and forth against the resistance of the camshaft...

Its rare that they fail in a big way. If its whining when cold or your loosing water slowly then get it changed, if its working fine it can wait another 36k for the next aux belt change.

Metallic mats?? Its possible condensation has built up on the cold metal and mold has grown on it?

Im having trouble sourcing the above for the standard 15" wheels, do Michelin still supply them for the smaller sizes?? I need to replace the fronts soon as they are wearing down, the rears still have plenty of tread. Or can anyone recommend a decent tyre??

I once looked at a red 172ph1 that had 185k on it.

If you look at the rally car refresh thread in the projects section theres a pic on the first page of a home made guard welded onto the subframe. I dont know why the metal guard wouldnt fit a 172/182, im sure dialogies lists it for them, perhaps its something minor like the oil sump plug not...

This is the metal one: Or you might be able to use the plastic 172/182 one.

Nice, has it got a ph2 dash??

Its 72k or 5 miles whichever comes first, its not too expensive, the Gates timing belt kit will do. Get the aux belt done aswel, on that engine I think it just drives the alternator.

When it gets low its not that accurate. IIRC when the trip computer gets to below 35 miles before you run out of fuel it shows ----

We dont know your mate but be very wary, the correct tools are needed the and there is a strict tensioning procedure to follow. The cars do have VVT but its not as affective as it is on Hondas and Alfas.

What does it idle at when warm and when cold?

Sounds more like its engine mount related. Does it knock when going round corners??

If your replacing it due to a service interval you'll need the aux belt kit from renault which includes the tensioner and idler. The belt on its own is 8200226493 The belt kit is 7701477519

Is it just lowered on springs?? Surely matched shocks should let the suspension travel down so far??

Yes except the 172cups without air con had different radiators, they didnt have the provisions for the air con radiator to bolt over it.

Front or back??

Was it loose before you took it off?

Unfortunately not, it wont fit.

Yes you will, the ph1s had shorter cats so the center section was longer by about an inch and a half. You'll need the longer center section or a ph2 cat, if its a early ph1 you'll also need something to plug the 2nd lambda sensor hole.

Looks like a good bargain, please try and restore it and not break it for parts.

Can you get a picture up of your fuse box?

A cheap torque wrench will do it, its because they go through the floor and stick out the bottom so are open to the elements, some penetrating oil will do the trick.

As above its just a couple of bolts, its not a complicated fit.

Every time you go back to another car thats got a light clutch you will be stamping it down to the floor now..