Search results

Sounds like the pump itself and the control circuit needs testing to me. Start by giving the pump a direct +12v and earth with a power probe and see if it runs. Then test the cars circuit as I bet it's a wiring issue.

Not an obvious one I don't think, did you run the Trophy James? Probably something electrical like an H02 or CTS playing up here as it's not far off the low to mid 160's they normally achieve.

It's so proper that it's churning out generic "P" codes with little explanation. You're in Derby which is stupidly close to us. It could be wiring, could be the sensor... have you actually checked the wheel speed parameters?

Sounds right on the tooth count but I'd say your next call should be to confirm the fault on a proper code reader. P codes don't mean diddly to me I'm afraid so cannot offer any help with them.

Easy job! Front radiator support off, disconnect the bottom ball joint then undo the two bolts holding the wishbone to the Subframe and replace.

Have you counted the number of teeth on the abs rings?

There's two, one on each axle. Most likely going to be the front has popped the linkage off its ball. Check out the passenger arch area

Is the red LED on solid by any chance?

Renault won't do an exchange on the 172 Cup as they are a different length. The 172 yes they will do and the 182 but the boots tend to be rubber which isn't ideal on these cars. Just bite the bullet and buy genuine or look for a good used shaft from Renparts

What car to?

The linkage as you call it = wiper mechanism

You can confirm this fault by removing the motor from the mech, reconnect the motor and see if it functions correctly. Normally it's just the mech that dies

Could be yes

Honestly, it's highly unlikely to be either the pedal or the TB and more likely to be high resistance on a line.

It's not really due to the motors or the linkage *really*. It's more lack of attention during maintenance as the drains on the scuttle block up with silt which allows water to spill over the top and over the wiper mech. It wasn't designed to resist this which may be an over sight but deffo not...

IACV

The link mech is a common failing on the MkIII and is known for siezing.

Have you pulled the plug leads yet to see if there is any fluids built up in the plug wells?

I guess it depends what you want. I've used Lightroom on PC but purchased Aperture with my MBP and I prefer that... Each to their own though.

New hose should sort it and it's cheap enough

Washer jets not leaking? Front and rear engine bay seals in place? You're not pressure washing the engine?

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?613665-Outer-anti-roll-bar-bushes

Diagnostics required I'm afraid but I'd guess what with the ABS coming on to it'll be speed signal related.

It will be because that is the wrong manual and most of what you're trying to achieve is controlled by CAN. ABS for example will always be on unless it receives a packet telling it no to be (although so should the SRS iirc) What manual and revision date are you working with?

Clio III or Megane III? Either way, speak to RS Tuning as they've done a few with good results

Maybe give Birchdown a call?

It's been cover loads matey and a quick search should open it up. I believe they're 25mm in the inner and 23mm on the outer but search it to be sure.

75w/80 GL5+ Brand is unimportant

It's the internal air temp/fan assembly for the A/C system. The noise is common on this type and a good clean out and lube of the fan shaft will shut it up

You know the main actuator relay? Well there's a problem with the control circuit to it.