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My youngest is coming home from the Falklands today, so I got his car ready by reconnecting the battery and giving it a good clean. To my surprise I found the door slightly ajar and evidence that someone had been using it as a crack den. There was a torn-up can of beer left in the footwell...

They look like the 172 but not sure if they’re different. Shaftec are more money but they're essentially a refurbished genuine part. You want R396R (OSF - Drivers) replaces 8200352042 and R396L (NSF - Passenger) replaces 8200372167.

Definitely won’t be 1.25 pitch. The material is too soft. 1.75 is the standard and always used on soft materials as the threads are deeper and more robust. Hopefully the die hasn’t damaged the threads 🤞🏻

Something like that - https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Bolts_Screws_Metric/Hex_Bolt_Full_Thread_M12x25_Bright_Zinc_Plate_10.9.html The metal is quite soft there which is why I think it’s 1.75mm. I can check pitch tomorrow though.

Ah sorry, my bad. Part number - 7701025057 From the parts catalogue VIS DI=12 L0=25 “VIS" is French for bolt or screw. "DI" stands for diameter, so DI=12 means the bolt has a 12 mm diameter. "L0" stands for length, so L0=25 means the bolt is 25 mm long. There’s no specific information...

They're a special bolt from Renault. See this thread here - https://cliosport.net/threads/nuts-and-bolts.814078/#post-11524905 The bolt shank (the unthreaded part) is designed to work with the anti-rotation plate so it aligns properly. Like Scott, I ended up reusing my old ones.

Powerflex works just fine, you'll hardly notice much difference anyway. They just tap in as well and won't put up a fight.

Yeah, mine was set to low also - little resistance - and dialling it back a little cured it. The first time mine went off was just as I turned out of Charlie's going onto Park Straight at Cadwell.

My EPAS used to switch on/off frequently when out on track. I found that the potentiometer was set too low, causing vibrations to trigger it. I adjusted it to increase the resistance, which stopped the issue. While it might not be the same problem, the symptoms were similar with the ECU...

Very good times indeed. The Track Day Trophy frontrunners go around 2:00 per lap in their fully race-prepped 182s, equipped with gripper, race tyres etc. The back markers typically lap around the 2:05 mark.

8200683207 100%. Managed to get into the Renault system today.

There are 2. The differences are below. 8200159254 superseded the original part number which was 8200683203 - this is for a pump with a float mechanism. 8200057324 superseded the original part number which was 8200683207

Lots of guides in the forum section, but you’ll need to be a member to view them. And plenty of great threads in the Project section too. 😊

Who’s going next? Go on, I dare you 😂 Any green in the house?

Pretty much. I would argue that only those who purchased a Renault Clio Sport brand new, would truly understand its intended driving characteristics. I had the opportunity to drive a factory-spec Clio Sport with only 7,000 miles on the clock, and it was remarkably different from my own modified...

dare to be different 😊 With the state of our roads, I doubt you’ll notice much difference, unless you have a particular set of driving skills. If not, you’ll likely end up in a ditch - cup suspension or non cup 😂 I’m sure in testing, Renault engineers found some improvement over the non cup...

Ok. I’m back in the office tomorrow. I’ll have a look for you if nobody has sorted it by then.

Reg number?

It’ll calculate it from GPS signal. It’ll give you all your lap times, plus pick out the fastest.

Race render is good. Just load your footage in itll calculate your lap times, speed, etc. Nice little overlays as well. There‘s a video here with multiple GoPro angles. I used to fix one at the front and one from the cage, just to the left of me. Then sync together using race render.

You‘ll probably change it anyway - Clutch Guide Tube - P/N (8200128328) - OEM Mfr. Corteco P/N (49376781) 25NM

Dug the Turinis out, bought some new boots and gave her a proper run out over the North Yorkshire moors.

Nice and light for road use, but can take a beating on track. I had one in my last track machine.

My mate blew a hole in his gearbox with a Valeo clutch. Last lap of Silverstone as well. Might have been a Chinese special though. I think my current machine has a Valeo but I’m putting a Sachs Racing clutch with organic plate in when this one lets go. I‘ve always used Shaftec.

Both are doing very well. Thank you for asking.

I’ve been using them since the 80s but I think it’s his son running it now. He did my CUP alloys but the finish wasn’t great. Friday afternoon job, so I had to take them back. He sorted it without any hassle though.

Yeah they’re a Romax in-house colour - Dark Anthracite. They’re a bit lighter depending on the angle and sunlight.

Mechanical stress more than likely. My mates did this and was just metal fatigue. I suppose until it’s opened we’re just guessing.

Cheers Just the camera angle. It’s completely stock. Another shot from a different angle.

Back in 2023, I refitted my CUP suspension after experimenting with ASTs. On a business trip to London the car felt awful - sliding, wobbling, and unstable. A quick check revealed uneven tyre wear on the inside. 2 new Michelin PS3s helped, but a slight vibration persisted above 65 mph. Multiple...