Search results

You've missed the possibility of it being nothing but a mere lambda sensor, it may sound odd, but its a very real possibility. Only sensible way is to read the code, sort what it shows.

No problem matey :o , it's good to see you enjoying ownership and treating it to a few nice upgrades, especially after all the problems it through at you so early in ownership!

Some lovely pictures chap. Just for content, here are images of your 'catastrophe'!! That is an intake valve... facing the wrong way! And that is the surface of a piston!

F*ck i'm looking forward to this, predominately to meet all of the BTM fanboi club. F*ck i'm not looking forward to this, predominately as I will be in bed for at least a month due to my inability to deal with alcohol afterwards. Fred - CS-traders-volvo-owners-club-convoy?

Actually a totally accurate figure, possibly 1-2 less than normal - but a realistic reading non the less, especially for such a low mileage engine. They need at least 60k to reach their full potential in my experience.

Pride of Workmanship

That's not OTT, that's how it should be!

If you are aiming for some better quality coilovers in the long run save you pennies and buy them when you are ready. Spending money on kit / labour for fitting just for the looks is not worth it in the short run.

IIRC The stock valvetrain will only do 8.3k aprox before they experience float. Without denying the importance of the smaller projects around, it is nice to see more projects with clout popping up, aka Burpspeed, The ph1 Meggy engine project etc - certainly makes more interesting evening reading!

Now now Matt, there is a slight possibility that the above has no relevance whatsoever to the project thread ^ ;)

For an eqv. expenditure of 7k I would expect 230/240 ish with 180ft/lbs torque; that would include PROPER management and PROPER mapping / dash and race spec loom, ITB kit, internals inc. Forged pistons & rods, rebored, cams, headwork, v.springs or add Solid lifters if you've got a little bit of...

I'll be there, but I won't be RR anything. 1. Saner 2. atouba - Deposit Paid 3. MarkCup - Paid In Full 4. Couzens 5. Nick172Cup 6. Ollie82. 7. Sir_Dave 8. Brian172 - Deposit Paid 9. white striped bandit - Deposit Paid 10. Clio_in_motion_2008 - Deposit Paid 11. 182Surrey 12. Jack_Kemp 13. David...

You need p-clips for the wiring - really tidy job. Cut off switch wise if you can budget for it grab a solid state unit instead of the unreliable cheapy mech ones. Bonnet catch wise I'd go with aerocatches.

blimey 5.15 - I thought he'd had it!

Bad memories. The cup racer is driven by a chap on here, believes a track day is ideal for shaking down a race car; as a result he is black flagged at most events he attends from what I gather. The saxo actually did nothing wrong.

That is just the manifold on your living room floor, nevermind the extensive costs that would be involved with the fitting.

Not on the car mate, too much snow and other work to take care of. Nope, you can get them in clio fitment, straight forward fit. We'll see about the racing, get a reliable season under our belts first - primarily excited about the prospect of racing - I have wanted to do it for a LONG time...

I hadn't even noticed!

Yada yada, thanks mr BTM ;)

Ah, so the neutral angle is sloped back towards you effectively, with all of the reach distances for each gear also pulled backwards? I have to be honest and say that I had not considered that as an option, my original plan was to physically relocate the ABS support with the ball joint in it...

Remaking the frame for the ABS gear stick surround in the base of the car. I originally intended to do it as I'm to tall for the pedal/gearstick dimensions (if I could put it in an ideal position further back); steering wheel position is not an issue as it is easily adjusted. To make it even...

That's not the hard part pal!

After a couple of weeks undercover it was time today to get the car back outside, open her up and work through the job list ready for the coming weeks. The new deadline for the cars first date out is during Feb at the newly refurbished snet track. I have also joined forces with Ollie as a...

lol

No, you can have the tools and still make a mess!

ph2 idler was on the car. For reference: Ph1 gates code: k025507xs Ph2 gates code: k035507xs You can either carry on as you are or move it over to ph1 spec, I wouldn't be too bothered tbh.

mmm that's not what dialogys tells me, are you talking non OEM (as in OEM without Reno logos)?

No, the ABS pulleys are only avaliable as a complete kit - the spacers I'm not so sure about.

I'd suspect it has had a rebuild / replacement. We had an early ph1 with a similar pulley oddity a couple of months ago, didn't check the crank however. It had an engine replacement on the service history from a main dealer and as such ran ph2 type pulleys with the associated spacers.

I pop a small black mark on the depasher pulley inline with the corner of the casing to count the 7 dry rotations after fitting, also brings it back to near TDC. I don't however mark the casing.