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they might have stopped doing them because of how long they take to produce.

could be the crank sensor. try giving it a clean with some wd40.

id deffinatly be up for this. would there be an age restriction ;)

nice one mate :)

this ^

just the welding and filler or prep as well?

engine degreaser or wd40. try not to use water as the electronics dont like it (as i have found out before lol). maybe a little metal polish on the metal bits too.

anyone know? ive possibly sorced a battery tray but it is off a ph1 172 but mine is a ph2 172. its the bracket tray that the upper gear box mount bolts to and the battery sits on it.

looks like it was top :)

i cant see anything unsafe there just some tacky wheels lol.

if its good enough for you then its good enough for me ;)

good idea that mate. might get it a little cheaper too iof lots of us go ;)

where abouts is that mate?

im game if i have nothing to do

did you get anywhere bud?

the sensors are a pain in the ass, once you crack them open they just come out but its the cracking them open part which is hard.

yeah me too. £2.50 i think its gonna be. better than the £4.10 it was before lol.

as a sugestion for entertainment, you could get a few live bands/djs on ect. i know its a car show but it would give somthing different to do and would help you stop getting bored. and if you put a variaty of music in there then it would help stop peole moaning about the type of music playing...

ive recantly poly bushed mine and i noticed an additional vibration lol. only on idle but if i have my air con on at the same time, the steering wheel vibrates like a bleedin rabbit lol.

saw it yesterday, i parked infront of you, nice looking motor.

looking at that site again, it has a picture of a polished front brace but the decription says it for a rear brace:S.

nah, the thread wont spin out because there is a sleeve type thing that would stop it (if you look at the 2nd and 3rd picture from last you can see the end of it coming out of the rubber mount, its attached to the thread and dosnt come off). you need to undo the two 13mm nuts and the bottom 18mm...

na, i suported it under the sump for the engine mount and under the gearbox/clutch for the gearboxmount. if you can get the bottom nut off from under the tray then the tread will lift out with the mount then you can get it in a vice or something to get the other nut off. cafefull not to...

luckily (or not lol) it was already loose:dead:. so just did it by hand then dropped the bloody thing :mad:. but you can get an 18mm spanner in there with a bit of jiggery pokery

cheers mate :approve: k tec racing do them poleshed strut braces, took ages to come though lol. my missis orderd it last jan i think and it came last may. they dont keep them in stock and are are to order i beleve. they do come on here in the for sale section every now and then too...

nice work there mate :cool:

gave it a bit more tlc today lol, did the speedo sensor as the speedo kept stopping and starting, and finally got round to changing the upper gearbox mount and drivers side engine mount. heres some pics :D thats the easy bit done lol, supported the engine with a jack and a bit of wood...

where can i get one today. been to gsf and they said that they dont do them. and my nearist renault is about 4 miles walk :dapprove:. obviously cant drive the car and cant put the old one back on because its bent and the thread in it is foooked. :( help.

you can also use a mutlimeter and test the resistance as well i think. if one has a higher resistance than the rest then its no good. if they are all the same then they are fine... or all foooked lol.

there is a fair bit of work involved mate. firstly, figure out how you are going to open the boot like said. most people use an electrical solanoid popper to do this. body work wise, the best way to start is to remove the handle, grind around the recess to bare metal and weld a plate in were...