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It's a bit hard to tell but they might be bigger discs as well, standard size is 259mm and I think there were 4 different size discs available with the Hi-Spec caliper kits back in the day so measuring those discs on it will be useful info for selling the calipers

Get Magnetti Marelli as they're OEM but just make sure they're genuine & from a reputable seller as there's lots of fakes about

I'd say have a look at a policy of it's own for the fiesta with zero NCB Only say that as all my NCB (10 years) is used for my 172 Cup with limited mileage & I'm paying £193 but my daily is a normal 172, 10k miles a year and it's £230 with zero NCB - so it might not be as bad as you think 🤷‍♂️

Depends what the end result you're after looks wise is tbh, on my Williams I was after as close to OEM finish as possible so went with paint But on my track car I wasn't bothered about looks/finish & wanted something durable & cheap so went with gloss black powdercoat

I don't actually know tbh, all I do know is that's it's a period correct race spec engine as he does hill climbs & sprints in it so it's got to be the right spec for the class he runs in

At my workshop and the guy next door is driving about in this

I'm guessing it was probably a comparison to the early ph1 & ph1.5 Valver seats as you sit more on top of them rather than in them

The Williams and ph2 Valvers have the exact same seats, just a different cloth pattern but they certainly are the best of the bunch It was the leather seat option in the Valver that used the R19 front seats

Bordanovasport are spot on, I've bought loads of Williams bits from them over the years

Worse case scenario is you have to get jiggy with a grinder and just chop the bolt

Yep (y) Unfortunately getting the fluid out is going to piss out all over the place & make a mess no matter what you do so use some cardboard & plenty of rags to soak up the worst of it

The pipe circled in red goes to the power steering fluid reservoir and the 1 in green connects to the pump The nut & bolt that connects the column & rack looks like this and it goes on the shaft you circled in green

On the far right of this pic is where the column connects to and the whole lot drops down as in the pic above it

No need to touch any of those, on the bendy joint at the bottom of the steering column, on 1 side of it is a 13mm nut, undo that, pop the bolt out and it's disconnected from the rack

There's an online version of it now...

Here's some diagrams of the system, basically you need a standard fuel rail that has the regulator built into it and the correct pipes Number 5 in this pic is the vacuum pipe that connects to the original regulator

Put it on a Dyno yesterday Not bad for a neglected £1,000 shitter 👀

I'd be looking at the mechanism from underneath to see what it's doing when operated and making sure both back wheels are locking up properly Just a thought plucked from my arse so could be useful or total b****cks but I'm thinking along the lines of the cables not being fully seated in their...

My 1st thought was perhaps it was some kind of cold air feed but there's just solid metal on the other side so god only knows why they did it 🤷‍♂️ Funny story though, the car needed an engine & a guy on here was breaking a cup so I bought the engine & a load of other mechanical bits & bobs at...

Here's a close up of it for you 🤣

Things could always be worse, at least it doesn't look like mine did when I 1st got it

@Williamspaul has got a set of proper Cup Turinis for sale

Not recently but I took that pic a couple of years ago, just your mention of being in the Eifel and a Clio Grand Prix made me remember the photo 😅

Just out of curiosity, is this your car?

Number 20 in the pic, that's where you undo it from, the bit circled in red is the spacer bush - don't lose that bit

Those are the 2 bars that 1 end attaches to the wishbones and the other to the chassis leg, just look at where the wishbone bolts go & you'll see the bar As for the gear linkage, follow it to it's very end inside the rubber boot & undo it from there, don't touch the clamp part of it, that's...

The top part of the belt (on a standard 172 cup setup at least) goes underneath the water pump pulley otherwise it rubs the cover. On that setup I think it's a 4pk belt that you need to stop it rubbing

The belt will only rub the cover if it's routed incorrectly -can't see the video for some reason- the belt needs to go underneath the water pump pulley

On top of that, they're well known to flip up despite being fully closed as well 🤣