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Reconfigure the settings with clip..is yours abs speedo or speedo sensor ? What faults are logged.

M/c might have failed, sometimes they have a hissy fit when the pedal is pushed down furthur than normal when bleeding.

M1177 are good pads, used them in my Kangoo on track. I found them to be a bit wooden from cold, but once up to temp they are awesome. Found it quite easy to lock the wheels up with no abs when braking hard, and no fade whatsoever on track.

Looks fresh with the new oem bits(y) best colour too imo !

Alpine all day long.

Trw stock pads are quite decent with good bite, They outperformed the shitty PBS i replaced them with. Try deglazing your current set, see if they come back to life

Not had an issue with camshaft nut coming loose, 30k since doing the belt. I don't think it will cause issues unless its been removed to change cam seal, if removed new nut and torque to spec

Crank bolt never come loose after torquing up on mine, used a new bolt and a decent torque wrench to do it up. Too tight and risk snapping, or stretching f**k out of the bolt

Mine does that power down thing occasionally, absolute pain in the arse. They are great when they work, however Prob best off with a good normal torque wrench and angle gauge for max reliability

If you sniff round, the gates kit and water pump can be found for around £50 new on ebay, or genuine renault belt and tensioners are around £50 on ebay, and water pump on top. Avoid the dayco as they arent the best apparently, also there are two crank pulley bolt sizes.

Just cancelled my virgin media before the 12 month period is up & prices go astronomical. Mrs is opening a new account in her name starting the day it expires for another year of half decent prices. Worth doing, if you can endure the pain of being on the phone for ages to cancel.

Looks fine, i usually jack up on the chassis rail the same, and fit the axle stand next to the jack on the chassis rail, but subframe mount is solid so will be ok.

Motorsport shifter, embrace the occasional rattle for the epic shift. Mine hardly ever rattles now, been on for a few thousand miles. One thing i did notice, is a load of paint of whatever coating is on it, had flaked off from selecting reverse and caused the shifter to go a bit tight. Cleaned...

Clean it back with deox gel, zinc primer and top coat to protect before it really sets in

Let me know how you find them mate. Ive only drove mine a few miles as turbo oil feed started leaking, but seemed ok for the price. The parts are so cheap, its awesome

Good to hear its sorted. Sometimes its process of elimination on stuff like this, which is time and money consuming

Epic work, looks like its coming together great. My turbo oil feed is leaking on my blue dci so the part number for the seal kit will be a great help, and has saved me spending £50 on a new pipe (y)

The gold board/full chip clone clio work fine. Mine has been used loads on various different Renaults, no issues. The cheapest ones (under £100) with the green board are crap avoid them.

Just send it mate will be fine, i painted over it a couple of hours after the other week, went off fast in the hot weather

Check the injector wiring with a noid light if nothing is happening on number 4. If it checks out ok, itll be spark, or compression test time. If wiring does not check out, trace it until it you find the break.

Rotational vibrations are never suspension related in my experience. Itll be an issue with the spacers or driveshaft, worn inner cv at a guess which may feel worse with the spacers. Have also had a vibration with knackered wheel bearings, with no play at all which was a headache to find sadly...

Replace the tensioner and belt before it ends up in tears. Also check the crank pulley and any other pulleys that run on that belt are not failing.

Clone clip is around half the price of that and the best tool for the job. Did you change the master cylinder?

Looks like the hole has worn oval from loose bolt in the past ? New subframe time or repair yours i guess? Pure motorsport do a repair kit for the 172, something like this could be used maybe if your handy with the welder...

I found it hard to tell which cylinder was off as mine was missing like f**k when injector went. Itll be spark or fuel related if its been running ok, coil pack might have given up

Flashing eml is usually injector, if leads are all on OK its prob coincidence and one has failed, however check the leads are not crushed by the plenum. Resistance test the injectors if you are unsure which one is at fault.

Had a few spare hours yesterday afternoon, so pulled the blue meg out and changed the oil and filter with elf evolution 5/40 & purflux filter. With the meg out of the garage made the effort and got the gtt out, and give them both a clean. Used Bilt Hamber autofoam, it takes 90% of the muck off...

A few jobs done yesterday Started by getting some paint on the sill on the drivers side. Cleaned up nice after deox gel, shot some zinc primer over the top of the bare metal. Coat of BH epoxy masic over that When that had gone off applied a coat of cheap gloss black metal paint over the top...

Im suprised hes not lost his legs if he has stitched that many people up in the past

If the horseshoe wont slot in, it might be far enough out to cause issues. If you have not disturbed the inlet manifold assume its timing related